Rim and tire help

[GreatDaneHummer]

Would this work for my Hummer H3 without looking stupid sticking out too far?

http://www.spyderlockwheel.com/wheels/17spyderlocks.html

17" RIMS 3.5 offset

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Tires/36...pcfon=1&gp=1&gclid=CJDh3dmsy8oCFQ2HaQodMA8COQ

36x13.5x17 Tires from Super Swamper Interco Irok

Currently have torsion bar lift and 1" lift in rear.

 

[Woodtick]

Go see ACE Tire and Wheel on Harlem. (Near Midway Airport )

 

[GreatDaneHummer]

I ordered the Spyderlock wheels with 3.5" back spacing and -38 offset with 108 MM center bore. They will be paired with Mickey Thompson Baja Claw TTC Radial 315/70R17 or Pitbull Rocker XOR LT Radial 35x12.50R17 LT/E.

The 36" Irok Interco tires I think are just too big without having the Rancho lift.

 

[justin94tt]

You can run 37's with a Daystar body lift and TBar crank. Definitely post pictures when you get them installed.

 

[GreatDaneHummer]

I think there may be too many drawbacks to the body lift and I am not sure the 36" tires would clear correctly on the inside with a 3.5" back spacing.

 

[JPaul]

What are the drawbacks to the body lift? I haven't seen anyone mention anything about that.

 

[amrg]

Bodylift issues? None at all!

@Greatdane, you mentioned you're running +38 offset? If so thats the same offset as stock so the centerline of your tire should technically remain the same!
(Are you running wider wheels?)

If you're not running fender flares, to clear 37 IROKS you need to trim the shark fin piece protruding at the front portion of your REAR wheel wells, as well as trim the front inner portion of your front wheel wells.

 

[GreatDaneHummer]

amrg: These are 36" IROKS by 13.5" wide so yes they would be 1" wider than the pair I have on now.

JPaul: Spoke with a buddy last night about body lift draw backs and he let me know that by extending the body up 1" you have to worry about brake lines etc needing to be relocated or at least re positioned... the drive shafts would be pushed out from the stock 1.5" to .5" into the rear end???

If someone is running a daystar 1" body lift please speak up? I would like to see photos and some first hand advice on how it came together or any issues you have had since doing it?

 

[JPaul]

I can't imagine anything that is part of the driveline that is attached to the body, aside from the gear selector. The transmission, transfer case, axles, driveshafts, etc, are all mounted to the frame, not the body. I could see a little bit of stretch on the brake lines maybe, but I doubt they are tight enough that lifting the body 1" would cause that much strain. I know there are a couple things to adjust when doing the lift, such as the lower fan shroud, but nothing major.

 

[GreatDaneHummer]

Would have to re adjust the gear selector? Shouldn't be that hard though?

 

[justin94tt]

Here is a thread that would be helpful, drivetrain is not attached to the body so there should be any changes. Brake lines should have enough slack in them, but you could always upgrade to stainless at this point.

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...ot-DayStar-body-lift-install-with-a-L5-engine

and instructions straight from Daystar

http://daystarweb.com/attachments/instructions/kg/P20166-00_instructions.pdf

 

[jphh20]

The day star 1" body lift is pretty straight forward. No issues associated, just follow the instructions. The only adjustments needed are the fan shroud, loosen bolted harnesses on firewall and a small brake line bracket extension for rear lines. The steering shaft extends when you jack the body up. The key is to take your time and follow the instructions. Here are a few pics of my rig on 35s, day star body lift and rancho suspension lift.

Joe

 

[GreatDaneHummer]

How does the front end hold up running 36x13.5x17 off road? Will I start breaking CV joints etc all the time? Why couldn't GM just make a better front end or solid axle...

 

[JPaul]

In my opinion there isn't anything inherently "bad" about our front end that any other IFS out there doesn't have similar issues with. The Jeep Liberty was even worse with the front diff housing blowing up, specifically at the input bearing. And that is with stock sized tires and no lift. Hit a climb just wrong and BLAM! there goes your input bearing of the front diff. And the Liberty's didn't have the option for a factory CI diff housing, so there was a fair bit of fab work people would do to try and reinforce it, and someone went so far as to custom build a CI diff for it using a Dana 30 pumpkin, which will set you back $1500 just for the bare housing and then moves the breaking point to somewhere else, albeit a cheaper location to have break.

Really, any time you modify a vehicle past what it was designed for you are going to expose weaknesses and have to fix/mitigate them. Doesn't matter if it's to put bigger tires on an offroader or boosting the output of the engine for a racer. Stuff will break since you're now pushing it past what it was designed to do.

Just go look at a Jeep parts catalog and see how much crap they've got to "fix" their drivetrain/suspension after lifting and putting bigger tires on and adding power to the engine.

And I see no reason for GM to have put a solid axle on the H3 as it would've just added more weight to an already heavy vehicle and decrease the ride comfort for all the soccer moms and mall crawlers that were the primary buyers of the H3. It's plenty strong for even fairly difficult offroading as long as you drive properly. Just because you see "professional" offroaders spinning their tires like made up some muddy hill that has ruts 3 feet deep on either side doesn't mean that is actually how you are supposed to drive an average offroad capable vehicle. They can spend the $100,000 breaking axles and wearing out tires, and blowing up pumpkins and engines and transmissions every time they go out. I'd rather actually make it where I am going without having to drop several hundred or thousand dollars for every 50 feet I go. And be able to actually drive my truck to and from work every day, instead of having some purpose built mudder or what have you.

 

[alrock]

Reloader has been running the body lift for a long time and has been happy. Small accommodations have to be made, like with the fan shroud, but overall he's been happy. I know others don't like the concept of body lifts as you are lifting the center of gravity without getting additional ground clearance which surely sounds like an odd trade-off.

 

[4speedfunk]

GDH...that link you posted doesn't really tell any details on the wheels you want.

Obviously you want the 17x9.5, 6x5.5 lug...but there are also some other important dimensions that you will probably need to call to verify. The 3.5" offset tells us nothing. The offset should be listed in + or - millimeters, as that is the industry standard. 0 offset means the mounting surface is centered in the width, and this should always be the reference point for any wheel selection. From there, offset is listed as positive or negative (in millimeters) and this tells you how far the rim has been shifted inboard or outboard, in relation to its mounting surface. On the H3...shoot for something around -11 to -12 and you should be okay for a Rancho and/or most other suspension mods. This offset translates to approx 4.5" backspacing on a 9.5" wide wheel. Backspacing is the real number you should be concerned with and it can be measured by placing a straight-edge across the diameter of the wheel (on the backside)...and measuring the distance from the straight-edge to the mounting surface. Backspacing is king...its a real number that can be measured by anyone, and it tells you exactly how much room you have to work with. Offset does not tell you much...it simply tells you how far (and which way) the rim is shifted from the mounting surface. Example: I currently run 17x9.5 wheels with a -11mm offset (4.5" backspacing), and they stick out approx. 1.5" further than a stock H3 wheel. Keep in mind however that they are also 2" wider overall....so its not an apples to apples comparison.

Also, you need to verify the center-bore as the H3 has very large hubs and a rather large hole. I cannot recall the exact size but its somewhere arouond 100 mm (or 4") hole.

If you get confused or you cannot get accurate backspacing info...just get a 17"x9.5 with a -12mm (or close to it) offset. They will fit and look great.

 

[amrg]

Running 35s on +10mm wheels and my tires moved out 28mm from stock location (stock offset is +38)
I am running a body lift (what I tried explaining earlier) and I had no issues whatsoever. Trimming the fan shroud is minimal work. Everything else was simple and direct but depending on how much rust your truck has seen can turn a 5 hour job into a full day struggle!
If you do a Google search, there are 2 ppl who documented running 37" IROKS on an H3 with a body lift. You can get a good answer from those.

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[Cyrus Avey]

I think my offset was a -9mm on my wheels. It pushed everything out a little over 2 inches. I like it. Running 315/75/16 toyos with a little fender trimming in the front.

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[rascole]

Here, this is straight from the website.

QUESTION: Is the 3.5" backspacing the only one available, and why? ANSWER: The 3.5" back spacing is the only option. The Spyderlock is a brawny hard core wheel, where off road performance is it's primary function. The backspacing is to accommodate modified suspensions without rubbing during articulation and hard turning, with the added advantage of stability. Most factory and after market aluminum wheels have a 4.25" to 5" backspacing which require the additional use of wheel spacers to effectively work in concert with wider tires and enhanced off road suspensions. Vehicles utilizing Spyderlock wheels usually do not require spacers.

QUESTION: I have one ton hubs that need a 4.25" bore to clear the hub, will Spyderlocks fit over my hubs?

ANSWER: Yes. This is a common problem with many after market wheels. For example a traditional 5 on 5.5" aluminum wheel would not come with a one ton hub clearance. As there was never a factory one ton application with that wheel pattern. Many wheels must require additional machine work and cost applied to them to make clearance for the large hub applications, or hub conversions. Spyderlock beadlocks do not require any additional modification. As they do have a 4.25" hub bore right from our factory

 

[Romeo]

Anyone know if you could run 40" tires with a Rancho lift?


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[amrg]

With a 2" body lift sure you can! Trimming will be required though!