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Search and Rescue H3 Alpha build

SuperBuickGuy

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
it's in.... I messed up the wiring - I needed to simply hook the amp power from the stereo to the harness. I didn't need the GMOS-4 so I'll be sending it back for a refund. I got to compare the two, and there are some differences... that said, I couldn't care less about OnStar and someday will get around to removing the OnStar computer.... also, the blessed bells don't ring anymore, to me - that's a good thing.
 
SuperBuickGuy

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
i almost burned my h3 down today. i put a high amp Powermaster alternator on a couple years ago used my winch yesterday and today it made noise as i was leaving. in 100 yards it heated to 250 degrees. warranty is only a year. I'm done with those this is my second powermaster that failed out of warranty. i bought a lifetime warranty remanu - don't likeremans but i don't like spending $300 every 2 years even more.
 
SuperBuickGuy

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
a bit of needed tweeking
I've always hated how the wide wheels beat up the rear fenders


so I hit it with some bedliner


I wired in a wireless remote for my winch and it works well, except when it doesn't - for some reason the plug just doesn't want to stay together


oh well, at least I removed the last of that useless Lifetime LED crap...

the best part about this rig is it really is plug and play anymore... totally useable without being uncomfortable.

anyway, time to wax it and get it ready for the winter (includes resetting my SAR supplies for cold weather).
 
High Five H2

High Five H2

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,627
Location
West Texas
sorry, I wasn't trying to be smart. I couldn't tell if you were making a joke or if there was a real reason to not use them. I was genuinely asking a question.
 
SuperBuickGuy

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
lol... that was kind of the point - you could use the fingers on one hand to count the number of times in the last year that I replaced stock for stock....

in seriousness, though, sometimes stock parts are better - though in pricing the stock-replacement cats I found that they're in the $500 range. The better option is buy a 2008 Avalanche two-piece system, add post-cat O2 sensors and install that. The benefit of that is I don't end up with 2 cats per side - because the 2nd cats are not monitored they can be eliminated (not legally, mind you) but it would still pass smog checks because they check the computer for error codes.

I did learn something interesting, though. the 2nd O2 sensors don't stay on all the time. They require that the car maintain 2500 rpm for 6 minutes and either put the car in drive or be driving 6 minutes at 2500 rpm to get the test system to enable. That means that if you have problems passing smog, you can clear codes, drive the car around town for a couple weeks to get a history and it would pass.... even though the cats aren't, actually, working. And before someone says it, that's actually the opposite of what VW did...

more likely I'm going to buy a box of stainless u-bends, 2 cats, (I think I still have a box of o2 sensor bungs) and fab up my own cat system. The benefit being higher flow. Should I do that, I probably will modify or simply build a new cat back system because I think the borla one is kind of silly with 2 resonators and a huge muffler.... and if I don't like the sound, I'll simply put it back on.
 
derian06

derian06

Red Rockett
Messages
1,866
Location
Madison, AL
SuperBuickGuy said:
lol... that was kind of the point - you could use the fingers on one hand to count the number of times in the last year that I replaced stock for stock....

in seriousness, though, sometimes stock parts are better - though in pricing the stock-replacement cats I found that they're in the $500 range. The better option is buy a 2008 Avalanche two-piece system, add post-cat O2 sensors and install that. The benefit of that is I don't end up with 2 cats per side - because the 2nd cats are not monitored they can be eliminated (not legally, mind you) but it would still pass smog checks because they check the computer for error codes.

I did learn something interesting, though. the 2nd O2 sensors don't stay on all the time. They require that the car maintain 2500 rpm for 6 minutes and either put the car in drive or be driving 6 minutes at 2500 rpm to get the test system to enable. That means that if you have problems passing smog, you can clear codes, drive the car around town for a couple weeks to get a history and it would pass.... even though the cats aren't, actually, working. And before someone says it, that's actually the opposite of what VW did...

more likely I'm going to buy a box of stainless u-bends, 2 cats, (I think I still have a box of o2 sensor bungs) and fab up my own cat system. The benefit being higher flow. Should I do that, I probably will modify or simply build a new cat back system because I think the borla one is kind of silly with 2 resonators and a huge muffler.... and if I don't like the sound, I'll simply put it back on.
Click to expand...

So if I were to get true straight pipes and eliminated the cats, I would have a constant code? Never knew of a second 02 sensor.
 
SuperBuickGuy

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
eliminate the 2nd cat. there are 4 cats on the H3 - for heaven knows what reason as there are only 2 on the Avalanche, which was the donor vehicle for the H3 Alpha.
 
SuperBuickGuy

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
so I finally got the stars to align and I got under it to check the converters.... temp front to rear on the driver's side cat was the same (390-415*) passenger side was 390* front 515* rear. I think, though, I see the issue about cats - there isn't much room. The flowmaster cats that I put on the FJ40 are 4" in diameter, these are 3 or maybe even a touch less... and there's not a lot of room there. I just had to put my rig through smog and it passed (August) - here in Washington we only have to smog every 2 years, so I don't have to do anything for 2 years. I'm sure I'll fix it before, but at least I don't have time breathing down my neck to get it done.

What's interesting, to me, is I haven't heard anyone complain about bad cats.... so I wonder what the deal is... I do know I have a lifter that's ticking pretty loudly so I do need to do something about that sooner rather than later....
 
SuperBuickGuy

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
major update time:

I drive my H3 Alpha every day, wheel it pretty often, and rely on it. It doesn't break, it's as capable of 4x4 as anything out there, and has no drama.

Why would I change that? I have another 70,000 miles to go before I do a major update.... :woot:
 
SuperBuickGuy

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
So today I had to do maintenance. I removed about 40 lbs of dirt too, so fuel economy should improve


funny, those bars were straight when I installed them


so the deals.
1) for some reason that stupid bolt that holds the nose of the differential down keeps backing out. I slathered more lock-tite on it, but I'll have to keep an eye on it
2) it's goint 135,000 miles and been at least 30k since the last diff and transfer case oil changes. so I did that
with leads to 3) metal shavings in the rear, and the oil came out grey from the transfer case.... glad I changed it, but it doesn't bode well for either one's longevity.

and to 4

I was going to simply do a SAS swap, but I want 40s and a diesel... that means SAS 60/14 bolt swap, atlas case, and some form of diesel.... we'll see, I have to smog this, for now, so I may simply go with more hp and abysmal economy.... I still have to replace the cats - but it's started burning more oil (2 quarts every 4k miles), and that may be a factor in the death of the cats. I figure since I have to smog in September, I'll swap the cats then, turn the 2nd sensor back on, pass smog, then come up with a more long-term plan. I've always thought the 5.3 was anemic and it's start of oil burning suggests I push it pretty hard....(which I do) so a 6.0 or a 6.2 may be the next step....
 
SuperBuickGuy

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
This radiator lasted 3 years.



so I bought an all aluminum one. I've had good luck with these - they're chinese - so they were the go-to this time as well



getting the old one out wasn't terribly hard - especially since I just did it.



So let's get this out of the way - it is NOT a perfect fit. It is close. I had to trim a bit for the cooler, find a new way of attaching the shroud, modify the upper bracket and get rubber mounts for the radiator (they don't use rubber with the plastic)


but it doesn't leak



and that is always good. Best of all, the radiator is now, actually, repairable. It costs about $30 more then a replacement (110 vs. 140)

I do have some more work to do - strangely I didn't have to smog it this year (was sure I was going to have to) - so I didn't put the new cats on. I think the motor is starting to use a bit of oil so replacing the cats early would really be a waste (it always used about a quart every 5k miles, now it's more like 2 quarts.

Also, for some reason my fuse box no longer is snapping down... so I should resolve that as well... or I'll just drive it until I buy something else :)
 
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