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Search and Rescue H3 Alpha build

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
light... still not done because I don't have the switches... but at least I can use them now

it's funny, the light is so bright, that the camera darkens the photo enough to make you think it was dark.... more like 4 pm




 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
So do LED lights need a relay like traditional lights? I figured since they had such a small current draw, maybe you could just hit em with a single +12v and a switch.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
So do LED lights need a relay like traditional lights? I figured since they had such a small current draw, maybe you could just hit em with a single +12v and a switch.

the lights were direct wired (I'm still waiting on my GM switches) - 14 ga wire and the wires didn't get warm (one for the bar, one for the other 4 lights). That said, I bet the GM switch is good for maybe 1 or 2 amps and I really don't (since it's taken 2 weeks and counting) want to have to seek out new switches because of internal arcing by running the lights directly through the switch.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
time to permanently wire the lights

GM put parts of the wiring harness in the car - so the dealer could simply wire in additional lights (very expensive, low illumination lights) but the wire works great for LED lights :)
on the bottom of the screen, you will see several wires that are blunt ended... those go through the firewall


that spot is right against the firewall on the left side


truly it's just a matter of wiring it all together


didn't get a picture - but I bought GM switches to fit in the factory holes in the dash.... all wired, and bright as day

which is good, since the power's been out since 5 pm.


I also finally found the trailer wiring harness.... not on the top left side of the dash.... behind the radio... bastards.... but I found it, and used the power to run the lights
 

Kyle

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,707
Location
Santa Clarita, CA
lights look great!! i still wonder about having to run a relay though. when i bought my rigid industries lights they came with a wiring harness that directly connected to the battery and was switched, no relay. whats the current draw on all the lights? there led they can be that much!
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
I don't know about whether or not it needs a relay, but I know that best practice is to use a fuse and a relay....

I bought some skids - finally got around to putting them on




and I replaced the upper control arms (@100k)... wow what a difference that makes... and up next, I'm building some adjustable/replaceable ball joint upper control arms using the old ones as templates.

and wish me luck - tomorrow is SAR 4x4 practice, I'd like to keep my "it didn't break" record intact
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
rock sliders and u-bolt protectors installed so that I can do this:




it was a good day - except for the rancho shock on-the-fly adjustment... that roundly sucks, but I'll be doing some vehicle lightening on it tomorrow and solve the problem (remove it).
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
Rancho is sending me the manual adjusters - one interesting thing I learned, they'll buy the air-control system back if you have a receipt (I don't) and don't like it. I thought that was a nice customer service gesture. Eventually I'll get pictures of the issue when I do the repair.... knobs are supposed to come tomorrow.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
well, sometimes experiments don't work. In this case, the Rancho 9000 shocks have the ability to adjust on the fly via an optional controller. The controller works by putting air pressure against the adjustment piston at the bottom of the shock, thus changing the valving. Except.....
It looked a bit vulnerable when I installed it and I thought I'd solved that issue by being careful on the wiring and tube running.... even had a protector to keep the elbow from getting knocked off.... problem is the part isn't terribly robust.


so I got new knobs and pulled the controller system off....
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
The only time I adjust mine is when I am going to be towing something, so when I am getting the hitch hooked up I then just reach under the T and spin the dial to full steam and it takes just a sec... then I usually forget about it when I unhook and wonder why things are riding so much more rough...
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
I have no complaints about Rancho's customer service.... though I still need to figure out the clunk from the rear.... I think it's the shock moving about.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
According to Rancho, I need to measure the sleeves in the shocks - some, I guess, were too short; thus the oversized diameter wasn't the issue, the issue is the bolt doesn't clamp on the sleeve thus allowing the shock to move up and down on the bolt
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
My project list follows my life - God, wife, friends, SAR, everything else. Thus, today's job was SAR
When I haul people, I've run out of room to haul 4 people and their backpacks along with my required stuff.... so a shelf was needed


plus there's that stupid step.... wtf GM was thinking is well beyond my 160 IQ


remove tie-downs


make legs by welding the bolts from the tie-downs to the tube


and look at all that extra space


actually, it is... I moved stuff from the back seat to the rear cargo area.... what about other people's backpacks? - I have a rack and they can walk if they don't like it (simply because I rescue people doesn't suggest I like people) :no:
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
well, some needed maintenance occurred.... I replaced the upper control arms, the dealership (I bought it from) replaced the rack....
and now
I've noticed a few things - squeeks coming from the pulleys (replaced) squeek coming from the alternator, deep knocking from either the water pump or the clutch fan (removed the belt to make sure it wasn't engine related), a smell of antifreeze (which is really annoying since I just replaced the pump on the BMW, and the Land Rover seems to have the same issue), and a vibration through the steering wheel from the PS pump.

So I've either replaced, or will have replaced all of that by the end of next week. I figure it's just normal maintenance on a routinely 4x4'd 100k mile vehicle. I also flushed the brake system (and it made a difference, which actually concerns me a bit since it really shouldn't have made a positive difference in pedal feel).

Anyway, I figured people would be interested

that is all
 
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