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You can swap over to 16s easily but remember to do both inner and outer when you do so. Breakage is not absolute with the 14s - for example, Neo never bent one but he went through three diffs - but the chances are reduced with 16s. And the 16s do still break but honestly, in my opinion, it is not a high failure part.
One advantage to the Bulletproofs is that they flex, which might reduce some stress on the rack. But that flex is also a bit disconcerting as I tried to spot an H3 once with the BPs and I could not tell which way he was trying to turn as the tires pigeon-toed just a bit and I could not tell which way he was steering. (This also happens on H1s with worn tie rods and H2s with some setups, like Green1 had on his but I don't know if that was OEM, Fabtech or whatever). I will stay OEM for the reasons that Bigunit stated.
One advantage to the Bulletproofs is that they flex, which might reduce some stress on the rack. But that flex is also a bit disconcerting as I tried to spot an H3 once with the BPs and I could not tell which way he was trying to turn as the tires pigeon-toed just a bit and I could not tell which way he was steering. (This also happens on H1s with worn tie rods and H2s with some setups, like Green1 had on his but I don't know if that was OEM, Fabtech or whatever). I will stay OEM for the reasons that Bigunit stated.
ABNTROOP
HIPPO
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In case anyone was interested and didn't want to search:
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...Hunter-Edition-H3-Alpha&highlight=Bulletproof
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...Hunter-Edition-H3-Alpha&highlight=Bulletproof
digglesworth
Well-Known Member
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- illinois
id just like to beef up what I can as sort of a "preventative measure"... the old "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure".... ill have to buy a couple sets. one to install and one to carry in the spare parts bin for the trail...
ABNTROOP
HIPPO
- Messages
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Agreed, I'm not a proficient mechanic, If I can beef it up once and never have to Frack with it again, sold!
digglesworth
Well-Known Member
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- illinois
eyeing that scorpworks rack mount too.... any word when that's gonna be available... I just read through the thread about it and I want one....
digglesworth
Well-Known Member
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- illinois
also, does anyone have a good place I can buy some of the 16s from....? I assume just search for tie rods (inner and outer) for an 07-up? as long as theyre the 16s and not the 14s....
As always,
I worked with BP to fit tie rods for my H3 using some of their tested components and some custom pieces. That was before there were any 16mm OEM and 14mm were out of stock.
The BP tie rod itself does not flex as much as some think. If they do flex it would be very little as any metal could if enough pressure is applied. It is when pressure is applied differently to each side the spherical rod ends "Heims" allow the wheels to rotate in or out more and it appears they must have flexed in the situation mentioned. (that is also the scenario that bends or breaks OEM) If you look at the size of the tubes, there won't be any noticeable bending or flexing going on.
The OEM do flex the rod as shown in many examples of them bent when pushed too far.
The BP take out some bump steer that is present with the OEM, which the absence of is noticeable when going over uneven surfaces at speed.
Yea I heard of removing the fuse theory on these. They articulate 30 degrees and the OEM are about 23. This allows more movement before the tie rods increase any upward movement on the rack. This comes in handy if you crank up the torsions which increases the angle the tie rods operate in pushing up more than going in and out. Adding larger tires also exasperates this effect on the rack and with the OEM failed pass side rack mount causes even more problems.
So basically screwing with the design parameters of the H3 by turning up the torsions and adding bigger diameter tires without changing tie rods is what "can" over time or instantly take out other components, and of course your driving style.
I also have noticed that when we crank the torsions the wheels on the H3 have a tendency to toe in more. If you don't have a good alignment done that can add to pressure on the tie rods. All you have to do is jack up an H3 and watch the result.
I do think the 16 mm OEM were a great improvement. Some people learning to drive an independent front suspension after these H3's became available in 06, had to learn wheeling them was not like flogging your Daddy's SAS F150!
I can't recall the exact mileage here at this early am (been storm chasing) but over 50,000 on the 06 and that much or more on my 08 Alpha with 62,000 and I installed the same set at around 12,000. Also still have the same rod ends a number of people said would fail in the early discussions.
I was told these are aircraft quality spherical rod ends and apparently they are good stuff.
OEM
Whatever..........
I worked with BP to fit tie rods for my H3 using some of their tested components and some custom pieces. That was before there were any 16mm OEM and 14mm were out of stock.
The BP tie rod itself does not flex as much as some think. If they do flex it would be very little as any metal could if enough pressure is applied. It is when pressure is applied differently to each side the spherical rod ends "Heims" allow the wheels to rotate in or out more and it appears they must have flexed in the situation mentioned. (that is also the scenario that bends or breaks OEM) If you look at the size of the tubes, there won't be any noticeable bending or flexing going on.
The OEM do flex the rod as shown in many examples of them bent when pushed too far.
The BP take out some bump steer that is present with the OEM, which the absence of is noticeable when going over uneven surfaces at speed.
Yea I heard of removing the fuse theory on these. They articulate 30 degrees and the OEM are about 23. This allows more movement before the tie rods increase any upward movement on the rack. This comes in handy if you crank up the torsions which increases the angle the tie rods operate in pushing up more than going in and out. Adding larger tires also exasperates this effect on the rack and with the OEM failed pass side rack mount causes even more problems.
So basically screwing with the design parameters of the H3 by turning up the torsions and adding bigger diameter tires without changing tie rods is what "can" over time or instantly take out other components, and of course your driving style.
I also have noticed that when we crank the torsions the wheels on the H3 have a tendency to toe in more. If you don't have a good alignment done that can add to pressure on the tie rods. All you have to do is jack up an H3 and watch the result.
I do think the 16 mm OEM were a great improvement. Some people learning to drive an independent front suspension after these H3's became available in 06, had to learn wheeling them was not like flogging your Daddy's SAS F150!
I can't recall the exact mileage here at this early am (been storm chasing) but over 50,000 on the 06 and that much or more on my 08 Alpha with 62,000 and I installed the same set at around 12,000. Also still have the same rod ends a number of people said would fail in the early discussions.
I was told these are aircraft quality spherical rod ends and apparently they are good stuff.
OEM
Whatever..........
Last edited:
ABNTROOP
HIPPO
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- 1,985
- Location
- Vancouver, Wa
Thanks for the feedback Hunner! Much appreciated!