Sunroof drain full of dirt

[BertaBumpkin]

The sunroof drain tubes are completely full of years old dirt, didn't have time to completely fix before rain started.. so she gets a hat !
Poor girl's been neglected for a long time , the tubes are full right to the roof

Follow along with the repairs ! New vids every Friday. Starting with a lot of maintenance work, then on to more interesting things http://www.youtube.com/@bloodyknucklesgarage

View attachment IMG_20240203_103830154.jpg

 

[Jeepwalker]

That's normal. Even after a year you could have 1-3" of 'dirt' in it. It's not dirt, it's accumulated dust the builds up at your sunroof.

The best way to approach it IMO is to remove the sunroof completely (4-bolts), and give it some thorough maintenance it's probably never had. Completely clean the gasket with a brush and warm soapy water. Clean the entire surround area on the roof. Make sure there aren't any rock chips where water can seep through around the gasket. Then, put the sunroof back in and adjust it so it's slightly above the roof by a very small amount and water doesn't 'pool' up at the corners.

Then probably the best mod might be to run new tubes straight down inside the kick panels though the floor below ..and tie in up above somewhere. Best of luck.

 

[BertaBumpkin]

That's normal. Even after a year you could have 1-3" of 'dirt' in it. It's not dirt, it's accumulated dust the builds up at your sunroof.

The best way to approach it IMO is to remove the sunroof completely (4-bolts), and give it some thorough maintenance it's probably never had. Completely clean the gasket with a brush and warm soapy water. Clean the entire surround area on the roof. Make sure there aren't any rock chips where water can seep through around the gasket. Then, put the sunroof back in and adjust it so it's slightly above the roof by a very small amount and water doesn't 'pool' up at the corners.

Then probably the best mod might be to run new tubes straight down inside the kick panels though the floor below ..and tie in up above somewhere. Best of luck.

that's actually a really good idea, thank you! I may as well, especially if it's never been done. one question though.. does the engine have to be running for the sunroof to open? i clicked the key to ON and the switch doesn't work... or is that more i have to fix LOL
i do like the idea of just running new lines though and even removing the sunroof altogether

 

[Teahead]

be sure you did all four.

 

[Jeepwalker]

IDK if the rears are that important. They don't have the fingers, and most report they don't clog up. And they go out the sides back below the rear seat belt shoulder harness.

Is yours opening/closing? Mine opens/closes with the key on. One thing on the sunroof's is, there's a plastic gear that sometimes breaks for some owners. The teeth strip off. Easily replaced, and cheap. IDK it that's your truck's problem. You might whack on the switch a few times in case yours has an oxidized switch.

The ultimate reality is, the drain tubes are 'safety drains' not the main water mitigation process. That's the seal. Clean yours off real well and if it seems shrunken, maybe it's time to replace ($150 on ebay). I replaced mine a few yrs ago. But I still get water in if we get a driving rain.

USA SELLER SUNROOF MOTOR REPLACEMENT GEAR for 06 - 2010 HUMMER H3 NEW FREE SHIP | eBay

Save money by replacing the gear instead of the entire motor.

www.ebay.com

 

[Jeepwalker]

If your sunroof has been leaking, it would be a good idea to ...sometime, remove the plastic sill-plates and stick a few pieces of lathe or thin wood between your truck's floor on the driver's side & passenger's side temporarily until the foam and floor dry out (few days at least). Or lift up and put a small fan under to dry out the underside of the carpet. The foam they used on the bottom of the carpet keeps the sound down but is amazing at absorbing water and takes forever to dry out. That way you can avoid mold, smell and eventually rot.

And while there, check the integrity off the ground cable below the driver's feet. That gets rusty and I'm convinced it was causing some of the wierd window/alarm behaviors I was having (closest ground to the window module). Since I fixed it a few years ago I haven't had a problem since.

Just a few ideas... good luck!

 

[BertaBumpkin]

If your sunroof has been leaking, it would be a good idea to ...sometime, remove the plastic sill-plates and stick a few pieces of lathe or thin wood between your truck's floor on the driver's side & passenger's side temporarily until the foam and floor dry out (few days at least). Or lift up and put a small fan under to dry out the underside of the carpet. The foam they used on the bottom of the carpet keeps the sound down but is amazing at absorbing water and takes forever to dry out. That way you can avoid mold, smell and eventually rot.

And while there, check the integrity off the ground cable below the driver's feet. That gets rusty and I'm convinced it was causing some of the wierd window/alarm behaviors I was having (closest ground to the window module). Since I fixed it a few years ago I haven't had a problem since.

Just a few ideas... good luck!

only owned her a couple weeks now, just trying to fix everything, heh "mechanic special" kind of a deal.. thanks for all the advice, really appreciate it, i'll be sure to check into everything you mentioned

 

[Jeepwalker]

That's basically how mine was too -- mechanic special with tons of deferred maintenance. Took a while to unwind/correct all the things. And get this, they guy who owned mine was a drywaller. Nice guy, but there were drywall screws all over that vehicle!! Ha ha . The mirrors broke and each mirror, for instance had like 6 drywall screws holding them on (somehow none even touched the paint).

I would just state one more time...from experience, and that of others, the best sunroof mod you could probably make for the sunroof is to drill holes that go through the floor, and connect the new tube to the existing tubes (cut before the bends). No matter how clean you get it, or even how good the seal is...some leakage is still going to occur. Might as well give it a good path. The rears are a lot more direct...they don't usually back up. Then you don't have to clean the tubes each spring & fall. But DO wipe down the sunroof dust seal a couple times a year to it seals well.

Really good battery connections should be a top priority. And really good battery -> body, and Engine -> body & Frame grounds are important. Clean the ones which are there & install some cheap ground straps (like THESE) ..could save you wasting time with a lot of weird electronic headaches. You can't have enough. And check that floor ground below the driver's feet I was telling you about. I'm convinced a poor one leads to a lot of the door/window/locks/security ...module flake-outs, which is the module part of the window switches. Esp being from Ohio where things (and ground straps) get rusty.

Best of luck on your new H3!!

 

[Teahead]

my rears were full of dirty.

Worth the extra 40+ minutes to clean them.

 

[BertaBumpkin]

That's basically how mine was too -- mechanic special with tons of deferred maintenance. Took a while to unwind/correct all the things. And get this, they guy who owned mine was a drywaller. Nice guy, but there were drywall screws all over that vehicle!! Ha ha . The mirrors broke and each mirror, for instance had like 6 drywall screws holding them on (somehow none even touched the paint).

I would just state one more time...from experience, and that of others, the best sunroof mod you could probably make for the sunroof is to drill holes that go through the floor, and connect the new tube to the existing tubes (cut before the bends). No matter how clean you get it, or even how good the seal is...some leakage is still going to occur. Might as well give it a good path. The rears are a lot more direct...they don't usually back up. Then you don't have to clean the tubes each spring & fall. But DO wipe down the sunroof dust seal a couple times a year to it seals well.

Really good battery connections should be a top priority. And really good battery -> body, and Engine -> body & Frame grounds are important. Clean the ones which are there & install some cheap ground straps (like THESE) ..could save you wasting time with a lot of weird electronic headaches. You can't have enough. And check that floor ground below the driver's feet I was telling you about. I'm convinced a poor one leads to a lot of the door/window/locks/security ...module flake-outs, which is the module part of the window switches. Esp being from Ohio where things (and ground straps) get rusty.

Best of luck on your new H3!!

Omg drywall screws XD hahahaa
Yea I think I'm going to run new lines like you suggested and put the bottom, makes more sense then all the bends with tiny hoses
Thanks for the link I may as well grab some, easy mod, can't hurt !

 

[BertaBumpkin]

my rears were full of dirty.

Worth the extra 40+ minutes to clean them.

Yea they're easy enough to get to, I'm going to check them out for sure

 

[BertaBumpkin]

That's basically how mine was too -- mechanic special with tons of deferred maintenance. Took a while to unwind/correct all the things. And get this, they guy who owned mine was a drywaller. Nice guy, but there were drywall screws all over that vehicle!! Ha ha . The mirrors broke and each mirror, for instance had like 6 drywall screws holding them on (somehow none even touched the paint).

I would just state one more time...from experience, and that of others, the best sunroof mod you could probably make for the sunroof is to drill holes that go through the floor, and connect the new tube to the existing tubes (cut before the bends). No matter how clean you get it, or even how good the seal is...some leakage is still going to occur. Might as well give it a good path. The rears are a lot more direct...they don't usually back up. Then you don't have to clean the tubes each spring & fall. But DO wipe down the sunroof dust seal a couple times a year to it seals well.

Really good battery connections should be a top priority. And really good battery -> body, and Engine -> body & Frame grounds are important. Clean the ones which are there & install some cheap ground straps (like THESE) ..could save you wasting time with a lot of weird electronic headaches. You can't have enough. And check that floor ground below the driver's feet I was telling you about. I'm convinced a poor one leads to a lot of the door/window/locks/security ...module flake-outs, which is the module part of the window switches. Esp being from Ohio where things (and ground straps) get rusty.

Best of luck on your new H3!!

Omg drywall screws XD hahahaa

Yea I think I'm going to run new lines like you suggested and put the bottom, makes more sense then all the bends with tiny hoses

Thanks for the link I may as well grab some, easy mod, can't hurt !

 

[Nikal]

How do the door jamb sill plates come off? I started to pull one up as the back clip was easy to pop us, but once to the middle it was real tight. I don’t want to snap off a plastic tab or something.

I want to pull the passenger aside to I can pull the inner kick panel where the BCM is to inspect everything.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Plastic clips. Do you have a trim removal tool? It's like a forked pry tool with a longer shaft. Probably good idea to get one at any parts store. If you break one, you can get new ones on ebay cheap, or the parts store. Maybe watch a couple videos too. By and large the entire H3 interior comes out really easily. The sill plates are probably the hardest items to remove.

 

[Nikal]

Plastic clips. Do you have a trim removal tool? It's like a forked pry tool with a longer shaft. Probably good idea to get one at any parts store. If you break one, you can get new ones on ebay cheap, or the parts store. Maybe watch a couple videos too. By and large the entire H3 interior comes out really easily. The sill plates are probably the hardest items to remove.

Thanks. Yes I have a few trim tools. I was just not sure if the snap clips were a molded part of the sill plate or if the are replaceable clips. Last thing I want to do is brake the sill plate thinking it’s just a pull & pop type of trim piece. Not like I can just get a new one at a dealer or online. I wish GM still offered OEM parts support for these trucks.

 

[4speedfunk]

I clean my drain hoses out with plastic weed-eater line.

 

[Doc Olds]

I was just not sure if the snap clips were a molded part of the sill plate or if the are replaceable clips. Last thing I want to do is brake the sill plate thinking it’s just a pull & pop type of trim piece. Not like I can just get a new one at a dealer or online. I wish GM still offered OEM parts support for these trucks.

What you talkin bout Willis???? You can get H3 Hummer Sill Plates (new and used) on line all day long. They come out like virtually every other GM vehicle interior and dash trim. Pry one end and pull.

Once the Sunroof fix has been done (cutting the "X" out of the drain grommets) 90% of the problem is gone, add maintenance and its a no brainer. Sunroofs require maintenance. We have 4 GM vehicles with sunroofs, never had a leak in any. Oh, and the drain line fix takes about 10 minutes a side. Hardly a major undertaking. Get after it already.

 

[Nikal]

What you talkin bout Willis???? You can get H3 Hummer Sill Plates (new and used) on line all day long. They come out like virtually every other GM vehicle interior and dash trim. Pry one end and pull.

Once the Sunroof fix has been done (cutting the "X" out of the drain grommets) 90% of the problem is gone, add maintenance and its a no brainer. Sunroofs require maintenance. We have 4 GM vehicles with sunroofs, never had a leak in any. Oh, and the drain line fix takes about 10 minutes a side. Hardly a major undertaking. Get after it already.

10 minutes a side! I can’t barely get my hand up to the drivers side one.

I’m more concerned about getting the rears trimmed as my driveway is sloped a bit and the water will drain out the rears. I need to pull the inner fender wells to get to them, but the bigger PITA is my CE has those dumb fender flares. (Not a fan of them) so working the inner fender well liner out from under the flares is another PITA.

I wish I did not have the sunroof as I’m never been a fan of them.

 

[Nikal]

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[Nikal]

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[Nikal]

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[Doc Olds]

This forum software is glitchy. Tells you there was a problem with a post, try back later, you do, then get multiple copies. Uuugh!

My driveway has a slope, but I back in up against the Garage door so the front is lower.

 

[Nikal]

Yep. Sorry. I went and tried to clean up my multiple posts. It’s this forum as the other forums that use this same software & platform are not having this issue. This forum Probably needs some updates?

 

[JONATHANABBY]

H3 SUNROOF DRAIN BLOCK
DID YOU HAVE THE RECALL ON THE DRAINS DONE? I PRESUME IT WAS AN UPGRADE TO REMOVE THE ELBOWS, BUT I NEVER LOOKED.I HAD IT DONE WHEN H3 WAS A YEAR OLD, NEVER HAD A PROBLEM, OR EVEN LOOKED AT DRAINS SINCE.- 2007 , 120,000 MILES

 

[Doc Olds]

Oh look, Mr. All CAPS showed up.

Prey tell, give us the details on the recall for Sunroof Drains.