Tranny popped a P0894 again....

[cgalpha08]

Rear are pop in.
Pry out the old bump stop.
Jack up the frame on one side. Place one side in place with something to fill the gap between the stop and the axle. A chunk of 8x8 lumber worked well.
I just drove off the hump at the end of the driveway and backed up a couple of times. Then checked how the stop seated and adjust the liner and repeat.
Both sides only took one repeat to seat properly.

Front are bolt in and have a very thick washer. Put truck on Jack stand and put floor jack under lower ball joint.
Remove tire. Remove old bump stop.
The well above the bump stop has 3 bottom corners open for drainage.
Drop the not into the well and either in place over bolt hole. A flashlight hellos align the not. Hold in place with a screw driver.
Take bump stop, put washer in place and put into could. Start screwing bolt into nut.
I then used a 12 inch extension and universal joint to tighten nut.
It takes a little finess but it's doable without removing upper A arm.

The Timbren bump stop make the suspension quit a bit stiffer. But I like it and there's almost no body role when turning out of a driveway.


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Ok cool thanks. Do the fronts fit into the one cup last the little prongs that are there to hold the factory ones?

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[deserth3]

Ok cool thanks. Do the fronts fit into the one cup last the little prongs that are there to hold the factory ones?

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Sorry had a couple of errors I corrected. No the front ones have a thick washer that fits into the cup. The bolt holds the stop in place. The nut they used is a nylon lock nut.

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[cgalpha08]

I gotcha, thanks!

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[deserth3]

No drilling required. Bolt hole is already there

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[deserth3]

Update and question...
I seem to be on the right track. Drove it about 150 miles last week with no problems. Took it today about 200 miles and only had one glitch. Had it downshift to third about 30 miles into the trip. Pulled over at a rest area and the negative battery terminal had come loose. So much for OEM battery terminal connectors. Of course I forgot tools and all I had was a multitool...
But got that tightened and not more problems for the rest of the trip.
I'm still not satisfied though... Downshifting from 4th to 3rd and not upshifting is not a normal symptom of a loose battery terminal. Also there was no check engine light or codes.
Checked the maintenance manual and found the engine grounds. They are present and felt tight. Before this is over I will most likely remove and clean them. but having numb hands from an old c-spine injury is making this difficult at best.
What I need is info. about transmission grounds. I read online the 4L60E is supposed to have a ground strap just behind the dipstick. My truck doesn't have one. Is it supposed too??? And if so exactly where should it be connected.
Are there any internal case ground connections on the 4L60E? If so, where? I feel they need to be checked.
Thanks for following this sad story. Almost traded it in on an Avalanche. May still happen. Of course if I do, it will have to be at the dealer that test drove it and said nothing is wrong.

 

[f5moab]

The code designates a TC problem. The PCM has noted that when the trans is in third gear the engine speed should match (or come close to matching) the trans output speed; when in 4th there will be some slippage. Excessive slippage when the TCC is engaged will cause the PCM to pop the code.

If the TC is malfunctioning, it will cause the fluid to get hot and hot trans fluid will cause the TCM from shifting into 4th gear.

Has the dealer tested the TC?

You might want to try this. Sort of a seat of the pants TC test. But maybe....

• Sitting in the driver’s seat, start the engine. Let the auto warm up for 4-5 minutes. Then step on the gas pedal gently, revving the engine twice. When it comes back to idle, step firmly on the brake, then shift the transmission into drive. You’re looking for whirring, clicking, or lurching when you do so, which are all problem signs mentioned above.
• Slowly move the transmission through all gears, including reverse. Again, listen for clacking or whirring. Note if any of the gears fail or if the vehicle lurches.
• Take the vehicle for a test drive. Note any sluggishness, revving, or lurching when shifting or accelerating. Listen for the aforementioned clacking or whirring sounds.

That's about as much as this old fart can remember.:giggle: Not sure if it will help but good luck.

 

[deserth3]

Thanks f5. I'll try that as soon as I can. I want to redo the ground connections first.

 

[deserth3]

Back in the shop again. 60 miles down the highway. Downshift to third. About 5 miles later. Check engine P0894...
Think GM can fix it this time???

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[deserth3]

Well the H3 is gone. Traded it in on a 2017 Silverado

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[CaseyS]

I guess that's one way to fix a transmission problem.

 

[f5moab]

Cool. You taking the new Chevy and trailer down to Moab in Oct?????

 

[deserth3]

I guess that's one way to fix a transmission problem.

LOL...Yes it is. Whoever gets it will get a great truck. Just as long as they don't drive more than 60 miles at a time.

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[deserth3]

Cool. You taking the new Chevy and trailer down to Moab in Oct?????

Not sure. Depends on work

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[deserth3]

I like it

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[alrock]

Nice! But how long's it going to take you to scrape that paint off of the grill with a razor?

 

[deserth3]

Nice! But how long's it going to take you to scrape that paint off of the grill with a razor?

Lol... That was allot of work. Especially just to trade out in.
Gotta get it out of warranty first.

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[f5moab]

Did you get the LED headlamps? If so, keep it level.:giggle:

Nice, I like the white ones.

 

[deserth3]

Yes. My understanding is all the lights are LED. I like it. It's an LT Z71. All Star edition with tow package.
All this can get confusing...
Thanks for the warning

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[deserth3]

Now if the military will start retiring decent HMMVEE's at Hill AFB.
IMO, they are asking too much for what they are offering. But people are buying them.

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[JPaul]

Now if the military will start retiring decent HMMVEE's at Hill AFB.
IMO, they are asking too much for what they are offering. But people are buying them.

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Wait until gas prices go back up, then they'll have a hard time getting rid of them again.

 

[deserth3]

Wait until gas prices go back up, then they'll have a hard time getting rid of them again.

Thanks. I honestly didn't think of that.

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[deserth3]

Sad day... It's sitting on the used car lot...:bf1:

 

[Traxx]

That's a really expensive new transmission. At least it came with a new truck too/

Nice truck, white looks good on those.

 

[deserth3]

That's a really expensive new transmission. At least it came with a new truck too/

Nice truck, white looks good on those.

Old injuries prevented me from dropping the tranny myself.
I do hate to see it go and yes this is an expensive way to go about things. But outs for the best.

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[f5moab]

Yes. My understanding is all the lights are LED. I like it. It's an LT Z71. All Star edition with tow package.
All this can get confusing...
Thanks for the warning

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You should be able to look into the headlamp (MAKE SURE IT IS OFF:thumbs and see the LED array inside. I know on my GMC the SLT had a special package for the LED headlamps, or it came with HIDs. But the heavy tongue weight of my trailer pushes the rear down and first time I towed it in the dark, I got flashed constantly. Without the trailer, no flashing. But those LEDs are nice. So I installed a set of Firestone bags and an airlift compressor in the bed of the truck.

You'll love it for towing. My old H3 could tow my trailer but it did not like it, especially up and down passes like Eisenhower, Vale and Teton, and the PU doesn't even know the trailer is back there.