What did you do with your H3 recently? NEW

[awalsh]

As long as ur cranked to 23.5 hub to fender no need to worry about parts.
I have 2 vehicles cranked and apart from replacing ball joints and bushings (and I blame the heat and my continous desert offroad trips for those) I dont have anything majure.

Try a 2" body lift instead of 1". Its almost the same work

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Doesn't 2" put too much stress on steering shaft not to mention brake lines getting stretched and radiator hoses being cut by the fan? Just curious if anyone has actually done it


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[amrg]

Been done before with an I5. One member, H3on40s had it documented here. He said it wasn't difficult, just bolts and the body mount spacer.
Before that I did alot of researxh and the colorado guys go even 2.5" but then they need a steering shaft extender which is available.

I looked at my Alpha (which has a 1") and I think my only issue would be the Upper radiator hose being stretched (easy fix). Wiring still has some slack (the ones reaching from the ecu)
Im doing it after the summer to clear what would hopefully be my new 37s

Here is the post

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?p=132356

Btw the bolts should be geade 10.9 not 8 as he did

 

[Traxx]

Besides the accelerated wear of pushing 37's, 120# per corner vs 73stock, all the time on axles not really designed for it, you have a horde of poly bushings to regularly grease unless you enjoy poly-squeak. The ride quality goes downhill, I've tried bilsteins, Fox, and the Rancho 9's and still prefer the adventure/off road series shocks it came with to any of them. I was going to remove it last year but ran out of good weather time, I already have everything for it except tires and sunshine and an extra fender to ditch the snorkel setup.

 

[amrg]

True, but 35s or 37s the bushings are gona wear either way but there are upgrades ( at least steering and diff ). Balljoints will be replaced earlier offcourse so are c.v. joints/tie rods (there are upgrades for those too). I am sticking with AT tires so truck is street friendly.

After 6 years of running 35s I got used to them I now feel they look small on the 3! Esp since all my wrangler friends run 37s

 

[RamRod]

Added some organization to the sun visor

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[the_real_hacksaw]

As long as ur cranked to 23.5 hub to fender no need to worry about parts.
I have 2 vehicles cranked and apart from replacing ball joints and bushings (and I blame the heat and my continous desert offroad trips for those) I dont have anything majure.

Try a 2" body lift instead of 1". Its almost the same work

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23.5” from center of hub to bottom edge of fender I’m assuming? Was looking at leveling kits and wondering if it’s actually necessary


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[Alpha X]

Btw the bolts should be grade 10.9 not 8 as he did

Imperial fasteners = Grade
Metric fasteners = Class

• Class 4.6 or 4.8 = Grade 2. Both are made of low or medium carbon steel.
• Class 8.8 = Grade 5. Both are made from medium quenched and tempered carbon steel.
• Class 10.9 = Grade 8. Both constructed from quenched and tempered alloy steel.
• Class 12.9 = Exceeds grade 8. Constructed from quenched and tempered alloy steel.

 

[amrg]

23.5” from center of hub to bottom edge of fender I’m assuming? Was looking at leveling kits and wondering if it’s actually necessary


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Leveling keys aren't necessary as stock ones should get you to 24" (but don't as its hard on the CV angles)

As for the bolt grade I didnt know that.

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[08H3]

Leveling keys aren't necessary as stock ones should get you to 24" (but don't as its hard on the CV angles)


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The one thing I've learned from the H3 (and all cars), is that a lot of it is just plain luck. I have a CV that is still good after 160,000 miles cranked at 23.75" Only reason I swapped it is because the boot tore and it's sitting on the shelf waiting for me to put a new one on. Other than that the CV is solid. Steering rack is another example. I've seen them cracked at less than 20K, but I'm still on the original at 210K, cranked bars the whole time, and I've never changed tie rod ends either. I think as long as you don't do anything stupid, luck is often the biggest factor.

 

[amrg]

Thats true but when you are at such an angle the boots are usually stretched (cvs) causing them to rupture and spill the grease out causing failure.
I also noticed that cranked whenever I hit a pothole when Im turning hard and the pothole is at the stretched side of the suspension, one of the bearings in the cv would pop and after im no longer turning it would pop back again (i guess it gets unseated and seated back).
But anyway, anything put at the extreme range of its motion can't run like that all the time.

In the end of the day, Driving habits, weather and luck play a big role. I busted my c.v.s doing a full throttle 40 mph climb on a sand dune. Had 100K miles on them and wheeled every week but sand dunes and desert safaris are nothing compared to rock climbing.

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[mjferencak]

Added some much needed horsepower to the H3.



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[humvee]

I already have everything for it except tires and sunshine and an extra fender to ditch the snorkel setup.

What don’t you like about your snorkel setup?


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[Traxx]

Nothing really to do with the snorkel. I can't stop anywhere without everyone wanting to chat me up about the truck and it gets kind of old after awhile. Been looking for a nice low mile stock Alpha to take over daily duty and move the T to a hobby/weekend wheeling project.

What don’t you like about your snorkel setup?


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[RamRod]

Continued work on the Rancho compatible trans skid:

This was cut off so I can tuck the skid up higher and not hang up on anything

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[Acer4LO]

Continued work on the Rancho compatible trans skid:
This was cut off so I can tuck the skid up higher and not hang up on anything
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Nice work! I am curious to see how well they will hold up at moab

 

[rascole]

Continued work on the Rancho compatible trans skid:

This was cut off so I can tuck the skid up higher and not hang up on anything

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You need to weld the support arm brackets to the crossmember. They are weak and bend easily. It only takes one little bounce to bend them up.

 

[RamRod]

Nice work! I am curious to see how well they will hold up at moab

That makes two of us!!

I am going to mount the aft bar brackets upside down from how the instructions say to put them.

The reason being when weight is added to them they are not properly supported and bend up, if you flip them around and add weight they would bend into the cross member and be supported since they have no where to go.

I also left a 1" strip that is bent from the skid plate and this is to serve two purposes.
1- support some of the weight when the trans skid is on a rock
2- help transition to the OEM UCP that hangs down further then rest to minimize the lip

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[RamRod]

You need to weld the support arm brackets to the crossmember. They are weak and bend easily. It only takes one little bounce to bend them up.

I thought of doing this, had to bend one back down already, but my driveway is really far away from a power source and my welder is not able to function as it should with that much extension cord (even with the thickest guage cord that I have)

So in my post above I have two plans of attack, flip the brackets and hope the extra lip will help transfer force into the cross memeber

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[rascole]

I thought of doing this, had to bend one back down already, but my driveway is really far away from a power source and my welder is not able to function as it should with that much extension cord (even with the thickest guage cord that I have)

So in my post above I have two plans of attack, flip the brackets and hope the extra lip will help transfer force into the cross memeber

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That's a good option. I bought a used crossmember from a local junkyard from a Colorado since they are the same and welded it up first then swapped them out. See you in Moab.

 

[RamRod]

That's a good option. I bought a used crossmember from a local junkyard from a Colorado since they are the same and welded it up first then swapped them out. See you in Moab.

Oh I never thought about taking it off..... I am going to take a look at it before final assembly

See you in Moab!!

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[rascole]

Oh I never thought about taking it off..... I am going to take a look at it before final assembly

See you in Moab!!

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I can bring my old one to Moab if you want it, then you can weld it later.

 

[RamRod]

I can bring my old one to Moab if you want it, then you can weld it later.

Thanks for the offer, I will think on it and let you know.

I just got back from doing the final install and flipping the bracket worked, but once I replace the factory UCP I will want to go wider welding the bracket to the cross member like you said....

I loose 1/4" this way but that doesn't matter too much when the CUP hangs so low

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[rascole]

Looks good.

 

[awalsh]

Nothing really to do with the snorkel. I can't stop anywhere without everyone wanting to chat me up about the truck and it gets kind of old after awhile. Been looking for a nice low mile stock Alpha to take over daily duty and move the T to a hobby/weekend wheeling project.

Lol I get asked all the time if mine is functional and if I use it to drive through water up to the windows


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[cbetts]

Thanks to a bonus from work, I now have all my parts to get Bessie back in shape!

Here is the parts list:

• Lower control arms with bushings (front and rear)
• Half shafts
• Front axle seals
• Fan Clutch
• Water pump
• Radiator hoses (might as well do water pump and hoses while I have it apart)
• Right side mirror (casualty from the Bishop run last year)
• KC light covers (melted current set on their first run several years ago)
• Hubcaps

Even picked up the needed tools:

• Fan clutch tool kit (includes 36mm wrench and pump holder)
• Ball joint repair kit (to R&R rear bushing on LCAs)
• Bigger BFH

The ladies of the house are going for a long weekend trip next month. I will have the garage to myself with ample room to work.