I-5's have some weaknesses and 200k is about where things go south. I'm at 200K and mine's getting weak.
Regardless, you have a long way to go.. enjoy!
Can you just get a small sheet of copper tin off ebay and just rebuild your socket? Or glue a bulb into the socket and solder the pigtails to the board. Seems like an easy fix.
Yeah, I have a Jeep XJ too. You can literally (well almost) buy EVERY part for those. They're like early Mustangs --...
I'd rather have a 500mile test drive than a 20 mile test drive. At least you have it back now. .. I don't know what to say on those other issues you raised. If you can't prove anything, yer going to have to fix it and focus on the good ...which is it seems like you have a great-shifting nicely...
Do you have any inkling if they used the same bulbs on Tahoe's or Colorado's? I've seen some duplication of Tahoe stuff, but never looked at the bulbs.
Would you consider soldering bulbs directly to the board? Or a short pigtail wire on the bulb to somewhere further up the board? I know that's...
Hmmmm ....you stumped me. THIS is one I got for other areas (not pass side). IDK if THIS link is helpful...
If not, nose around digikey and maybe you can find what you need. Do you still have the bulb base where you could install a new bulb?
Obviously if the bearing is shot, don't drive it to your mechanic's place. You could throw a fan through the radiator (or hood!) ..and/or cook the engine. Tow it..
If the bearing is still good, a guy *might* be able to put a gal of distilled water in the radiator, leave the radiator cap on...
Say, ....while you have your H3 in to your mechanic, two other often-overlooked maintenance items you might have him do:
1) Exchange the brake fluid. This should firm up the pedal and prevent internal rusting ..cause brake fluid holds moisture (to a point). If he has a brake fluid exchange...
That looks about where the wp would leak from. Take a look "up" there with a flashlight. There's a hole on the water pump neck, where the water comes out should a seal fail. And the seal probably failed bc your bearing crapped out and took the seal with it eventually. That's normal ...pretty...
You have to remove the door regulator panel (inside) and remove the glass. I believe there's a bolt inside to move the track/s so you can rotate the glass to get it out. Lot of work for 4 doors, but you're close...
It's hard to warranty something when you don't know how an owner is going to treat it or abuse it. And those 5yr 100k warranties ....Yeah right. I bet you'd end up spending hours on the phone frustrated, and sending documentation ...have to have a transmission shop do a teardown to prove it was...
I get people every now and then who say to me, "Wow ...a hummer. I always thought they were cool ...I'd like to get one of those too." I usually tell them, "Ok ...but you better have deep pockets and/or be prepared to do a lot of maintenance and repair work, yourself. Or else you're going to go...
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