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How many letters (max) on your plates up there? (numbers, letters, hyphens?)

If your sunroof has been leaking, it would be a good idea to ...sometime, remove the plastic sill-plates and stick a few pieces of lathe or thin wood between your truck's floor on the driver's side & passenger's side temporarily until the foam and floor dry out (few days at least). Or lift up...

IDK if the rears are that important. They don't have the fingers, and most report they don't clog up. And they go out the sides back below the rear seat belt shoulder harness. Is yours opening/closing? Mine opens/closes with the key on. One thing on the sunroof's is, there's a plastic gear...

Have you done a google search? There's gotta be a lot of idea out there in a long table somewhere ...I would think.

OP, Do you have a scan tool you can watch the temp readings? Or you can simply ohm out the temp sensor (back by the firewall) and compare the readings (engine cold & engine warm) to a temp-ohm table. Also feel the pressure in the upper radiator hose when it gets hot. If it's so darn tight like...

That's normal. Even after a year you could have 1-3" of 'dirt' in it. It's not dirt, it's accumulated dust the builds up at your sunroof. The best way to approach it IMO is to remove the sunroof completely (4-bolts), and give it some thorough maintenance it's probably never had. Completely...

If it comes back and goes dim again, you might wiggle the associated fuses. Also wouldn't hurt to check the ground below the driver's feet on the floor. Mine, the connector was completely rusted off. Make sure the battery cable connections are extra-clean.

The last one I bought, the end wasn't welded 'straight' as it was. So I had to compensate moving the tie rods. The next intermediate shaft I buy my plan is to cut the welds, separate the end, then install a sealed bearing on the actual shaft. Then re-weld the end, (taking care not to overheat...

BTW, you see the same diminishing parts situation with GMT900 pickups, and a lot of the GMT800 unique parts from GM aren't avail, esp like interior and body parts. Although there's a ton of aftermarket drivetrain support for GM trucks & V8's. Same with Ram trucks. A lot of parts for the early...

I agree!! ;)

You're probably better off taking your truck to a welding shop and have them price out the cost to piece in new steel. That's not as difficult as you might think. That should be a LOT cheaper. If you have to pay a shop, it's going to cost you a bundle and I'm going to agree with Acer4Lo that...

Which particular items are you referring to? Engine hard-parts? Drivetrain? I just looked at a few items I normally look at .....didn't see any difference in what I've been seeing lately ....which is, like you say, more items becoming less available. Or unavailable. GM sells their parts stock...

Is your H3 using coolant at all? If it is, could be a heater core, but you'd likely smell coolant and see a fogged up windshield if it were. Swipe the windshield with your finger...if you see a definitel 'clean' area where you swiped, then it could be coolant deposits. Turn your defrost on...

I went on a long test drive, 80+ miles on roads and under conditions that 'typically' induce the chugging. Nothing today. Ran and drove perfect. Just like yesterday's test drive's. I noticed when the misfire events do occur (again, they don't set a code and aren't chronic) ..they seem to do so...

Thanks. Yeah, I think I'm going to some scanning on the crank and cam sensors, voltage too. See what the scanner sees. But first I'll quadruple-check the engine/body/battery grounds/connections. Get all the RockAuto parts I think I might need coming at once (you know their shipping!). The...

I agree a guy could get carried away. But depends how he goes about it. OTOH, new parts will make it drive & handle better. IDK about 8 months. It could be, like you say, if he gets carried away. It's really hard to stay on a job like that if you have kids at home and a wife/family, etc. I might...

If you buy it, let us know what differences you found

Gents, Love to hear your thoughts on this recent issue (H3 2007, I-5, 200k mi): Been having a 'miss' where she bucks at times between 52-62 mph ...and pretty much ONLY during longer flat-road cruising periods, or even a bit worse if the road is a slight incline (when engine is under a higher...

I've heard of it, but not done it. I'm looking at a potential rebuild coming up, so I've got some 'thinking' to do on it. On another foum (355) it's debated too, weather effective or not. Mine just rolled over 200k mi. And the oil pressure on my I-5 since I bought it has been abysmally low. Like...

One other suggestion: If you get a length of thin metal cable at the hardware store (also known as Wire Rope) small stuff like 3/32" (2.3mm). Thin cable (~8' long), that will be flexible. Put some tape over the tip so it's not sharp and won't 'catch'. Then thread it down the drain tube WHILE...