Light Bar position

[amrg]

Yes, I have 20% upfront and 30% everywhere else
(In this country 100% would be full black)

 

[Kyle]

Yes, I have 20% upfront and 30% everywhere else
(In this country 100% would be full black)

Interesting, here in the U.S its the smaller the percentage the darker the tint, so 5% is full black, and then 100% would be clear.

 

[amrg]

Front windshield used to be (30%)
At night no one would be visible inside the car if you look from the outside.

But after replacing the front windshield for the second time I went with 20% because with the old (30%) setup I cant see clearly when driving in dark alleys and it really affected long distance vision when out offroad in the desert at night.

 

[Kyle]

Front windshield used to be (30%)
At night no one would be visible inside the car if you look from the outside.

But after replacing the front windshield for the second time I went with 20% because with the old (30%) setup I cant see clearly when driving in dark alleys and it really affected long distance vision when out offroad in the desert at night.

yea i have to say the vision is really cut down with 20% on the windshield, im thinking about replacing it with a special mirror tint that you cant see in during the day but at night its clear as can be for wheeling and stuff.

 

[awalsh]

yea i have to say the vision is really cut down with 20% on the windshield, im thinking about replacing it with a special mirror tint that you cant see in during the day but at night its clear as can be for wheeling and stuff.

You say that now until you do it, doesn't give the black look as a true 20% film

That was a mirrored film I had on for a few weeks

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[Kyle]

You say that now until you do it, doesn't give the black look as a true 20% film

That was a mirrored film I had on for a few weeks

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well idc about the black look, i care more about not being able to see any occupants inside. lol

 

[GarryM]

I believe a lot of the vibration is due to the mounting of the brackets along with type of brackets. I'm seriously looking into the ZROADZ noise canceling diffuser, as I've tried every trick I could think of to stop the vibration, short of taking the light bar off my truck. Again thanks for this information, appreciate it.

 

[Alphah3]

Yeah, it really sucks. Real lack of R&D on wind displacement.

 

[GarryM]

Yeah, it really sucks. Real lack of R&D on wind displacement.

It all comes down to NVH and bracket design and development. I'm sure if the bracket had some stiffing ribs in the bends it would strengthen more and cause less vibration. Being an automotive engineer for over 23 yrs, dealt with a lot of these sort of issues and having designed all kinds of engine components these need more development. But with more development adds more cost, so just stamp out some brackets, hit them few times to make the bends and your done. Thanks again for that diffuser was thinking along same lines to help reduce wind noise, and looks like great alternative to use over the door trim or RTV on the fins.

 

[awalsh]

well idc about the black look, i care more about not being able to see any occupants inside. lol

That is true haha


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[Kyle]

That is true haha


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great intimidation factor not being able to see in

 

[650Hawk]

FWIW, I've never heard of the vibration issues with the G2 brackets, maybe they are thicker? Although I don't know if they are available anymore.

 

[awalsh]

great intimidation factor not being able to see in

Agreed 100%


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[awalsh]

FWIW, I've never heard of the vibration issues with the G2 brackets, maybe they are thicker? Although I don't know if they are available anymore.

Mine don't vibrate too bad, it just depends on the size of the bar and if you block off the fins on the back
I used tons of silicone and door edge trim which helped heaps but it still vibrates


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[CRR]

Those that are complaining about vibration, did you use self tapping screws or rivnuts? I only use rivnuts on installs that I personally do, and no vibration at 70+ mph down the road, wind noise obviously but no vibration.

Adding stiffeners to the brackets isn't a great idea, with the wide variance in manufacturer light bar length and tolerances you'll fatigue the hell out of the a pillar sheetmetal if the bracket can't "give" some.

 

[650Hawk]

Those that are complaining about vibration, did you use self tapping screws or rivnuts? I only use rivnuts on installs that I personally do, and no vibration at 70+ mph down the road, wind noise obviously but no vibration.

I used only self-tapping screws on my G2 brackets...no vibration at all at any speed.

 

[Alphah3]

It's not just vibration, but the wind noise
that drowns out the tires roaring down the road.
I couldn't hear my self think at 70 mph.! I tried
all the cheap remidies and had no success.
The deflector all but eliminates the wind noise so you can
once again enjoy the roar of your tires. Special!

 

[awalsh]

Those that are complaining about vibration, did you use self tapping screws or rivnuts? I only use rivnuts on installs that I personally do, and no vibration at 70+ mph down the road, wind noise obviously but no vibration.

Adding stiffeners to the brackets isn't a great idea, with the wide variance in manufacturer light bar length and tolerances you'll fatigue the hell out of the a pillar sheetmetal if the bracket can't "give" some.

I used some fat self tappers, never thought about rivnuts working any better


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[Peep]

My wind noise is at lower speeds and not always....odd after reading this. It would take me to long, duty and taxes to order a defuser. Anyone have some rough dementions?

 

[Korby7]

I recently mounted mine on the upper windshield. No unexpectedly bad wind noise until I reach 70-80 Mph at which point it starts to whistle. If I'm headed into a headwind at those speeds, it is deafening. We recently had a large snow storm that covered the gap on top and the wind noise disappeared. It seems the wind is kicking up off the windshield causing the whistle. I plan on building a Gobi Stealth style roof rack and I may bring the front deflector to just over the light with a panel that closes the top gap of the light bar. I have also heard of people putting door edging along some of the cooling fins to help with this. I may give that a shot.
View attachment 21905View attachment 21904

Minimal wind noise after adding door trim to bottom half of cooling fins off the light bar.


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[SuperBuickGuy]

Minimal wind noise after adding door trim to bottom half of cooling fins off the light bar.


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turn your bar over... I had the same issue, did the same fix, then someone pointed out they are different top/bottom... flipped it over. Noise is gone.

 

[Korby7]

turn your bar over... I had the same issue, did the same fix, then someone pointed out they are different top/bottom... flipped it over. Noise is gone.

My cooling fins are the same top and bottom but I have the vapor breather that needs to stay on top to keep from getting moisture build up.


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[JPaul]

Why does it matter if the breather is on top? It shouldn't matter if it's on top or on the bottom, or even the side. All it is meant for is to allow pressure and vapor to flow in/out of the enclosure. If water gets in while it's raining or something then it needs to be able to escape as vapor when the air outside the enclosure dries out.

My cooling fins are the same top and bottom but I have the vapor breather that needs to stay on top to keep from getting moisture build up.


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[Korby7]

The warm evaporated water vapor rises to the top of the enclosure. If it doesn't have a place to escape, it condenses and goes back to the bottom. Some will escape as water if the vent was on the bottom but won't dry out as well.


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[amrg]

This is true in an open valve situation but then if this was the case the LED housing will no longer be sealed.
Those breathers are pressure controlled and use the built up pressure from heat to open up and release the air and moisture inside. It shouldn't matter if its up or down. Many LED bar designs have them located in the center.