New found problems

[Bananatank]

New member here. I just bought my first H3 about 3 months ago. It is a 2006 that had 78,000 miles on it. I just turned 80,500 last Saturday. I hit a pot hole in the road and next thing I know, it is dinging and the oil light is on. I will try to replace the sensor this weekend. I hope this fixes the problem. It just comes on when I stop, but not every time.

Yep mine does the same if you'd like to check to see if it's the sensor it's right above your oil filter if you pull the sensor out and it has oil in it then it needs to be replaced.


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[Biggsly]

Yep mine does the same if you'd like to check to see if it's the sensor it's right above your oil filter if you pull the sensor out and it has oil in it then it needs to be replaced.


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Thanks. I am going to check it tonight.

 

[Best4x4]

Entire oil sensor install should take like 15min. Simply unplug it, then remove it. Install is the opposite of the install.

 

[Biggsly]

I replaced the sensor last night. I drove it all day with no problems. I hope this is the only issue I have for a while.

 

[Bananatank]

https://vimeo.com/150226401 the dreaded problem came back so I may have found a possible solution. If you look at the video you see the code then you see me kill the car go mess with the cables start it back up and it's gone. Terminals or cables need to be replaced.. I replaced the terminals like one month ago butttt in going to replace them once more just in case. Then the cables. [emoji849]


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[Odimus]

That cable looks pretty suspect. I would cut it open and then re-wrap it once you check it out.

 

[Bananatank]

Okay so after replacing the battery terminals for a second time the codes went away for a short period of time but they are back now again. Could that faulty oil sensor have any correlation with these codes?? Could it be telling the computer basically to go into protection mode or am I thinking too far into the problems?


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[Bananatank]

Next on the list is either new battery cables which is gonna be a pain in the a** I heard or possibly a new battery


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[Mr_Rich]

Did you replace the throttle body like CaseyS and I have strongly suggested?

 

[Bananatank]

Did you replace the throttle body like CaseyS and I have strongly suggested?

You think it could be the throttle body even after the video I posted of me temporarily fixing it just by moving the cable about? I'm not being a smart ass here I'm being genuine because I'm a novice here idk.


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[Mr_Rich]

You think it could be the throttle body even after the video I posted of me temporarily fixing it just by moving the cable about? I'm not being a smart ass here I'm being genuine because I'm a novice here idk.


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I had a very similar if not identical problem a year ago. See the Hummer Tech column for my post. DTC2135>>>>Replace throttle body. That's what it says in the Hummer shop manual. All the other codes are superfluous. You replaced the battery terms. That is good. It clears the problem, but doesn't fix it.

 

[Bananatank]

I'll take your advice on this one. I'll replace the throttle body the whole thing I assume.? Do you remember an estimate on how much you payed/ how difficult it was to replace? The problem is a lot of people have almost the same problems then have the possible solution so I'm
Trying to see which ones i need to try and replace first.
(I do value the advice however and plan on taking it)

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[Mr_Rich]

Replacing the throttle body is probably one of the easiest maintenance jobs on these vehicles. You have to watch the white retaining clip on the elec. connector. If it wasn't for the fact that the electronic throttle position sensor is integral to the throttle body the whole unit wouldn't have to be replaced. That's all there is to it.

 

[CaseyS]

Everytime you pull the battery connections, you reset the ECU. The codes go away until they are retriggered after powerup. I don't think your battery has solved any of the problem. The other thing is the feedback resistors may be good at the idle position and bad at a certain point in the sweep of the butterfly. You don't get the code until you sweep through that point. If the problem were continuous, the reduced power would also come in a limp home mode where the throttle would only open to like 20% and it would be undriveable. Swap the TB and report back.

 

[rascole]

Everytime you pull the battery connections, you reset the ECU. The codes go away until they are retriggered after powerup. I don't think your battery has solved any of the problem. The other thing is the feedback resistors may be good at the idle position and bad at a certain point in the sweep of the butterfly. You don't get the code until you sweep through that point. If the problem were continuous, the reduced power would also come in a limp home mode where the throttle would only open to like 20% and it would be undriveable. Swap the TB and report back.

I agree with CaseyS here. Not the cheapest repair but worth a shot. Or you could find a friend and swap TB for a day and see if the problem follows the TB or clears on yours.

 

[Bananatank]

Will do, thanks all.


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[Bananatank]

Hello all could I swap my throttle body for a 09 Chevy Silverado 1500 2wd throttle body for a day?


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[06 H3]

What motor do you have and what motor does the Silverado have

 

[CaseyS]

Probably not. The A1 Cardone part # is 67-3006 and that comes up only for 06-07 H3. No other cross reference. I found the whole thing as cheap as $131 online.

 

[Bananatank]

I guess I will try and go purchase one tomorrow I just hope that's the problem and I'm not just throwing more money at the situation. Thanks all


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[CaseyS]

I hear ya. That sucks that it is probably considered an electrical part and is not returnable. Good luck with it, I'm pretty confident this is your problem.

 

[Hayden]

If you havent bought a new one yet take the throttle body completely off and clean the f*ck out of it. Worth a shot

 

[Bananatank]

News for everyone the problem has been resolved this time. I found a bad wire in the plug that looks like it plugs in the throttle body unit (sorry for the poor description), It was a stroke of luck I found this before replacing the whole throttle body out of mechanical frustration. The wire coating was fine except for a small kink, i got a razor blade and started shaving the wire coating down until I saw the split in the wire, I then cut the coating in half and reattached those two wires by soldering them. (Not sure if you can see in the picture but that's after I cut it)

I had to play with each wire to figure out which one was sending it into reduced power mode, if you even barely touched the wire it would put the engine in reduced mode and it would sound like it was running on two cylinders. Appreciate all the help guys glad I didn't replace that 200 dollar part when i fixed it myself [emoji28] more money to save for mods now.


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[Clark]

Let me revise this thread. My oil light and chime started going off a few times. So I checked the other threads here so I figured ok I'll change a few sensors
and do away with the annoying chime. I replaced my Cam solenoid, I thought it would relieve my misery. It did for a week. The oil light came back on like most
here in the forums only when coming to a stop after a drive. So I decided to replace my oil pressure sensor as well. So after a few days I thought I was on easy street.
Suddenly today the light came back on with the chime.. My oil level is perfect I change my oil every 5K miles. My engine runs quiet and my operating temp is fine too. No knocks or lifter clicks. My H3 is an 07 3.7 liter 129K miles. My throttle body and MAF sensor are clean. I maintain my truck perfectly. I was about to install a set of Stingers and replace the oem battery clamps. I'm open to you good members advice on What my next step should be. PLEASE!!! I'm afraid I will end up at the dealer. THANKS

 

[Can007]

Let me revise this thread. My oil light and chime started going off a few times. So I checked the other threads here so I figured ok I'll change a few sensors
and do away with the annoying chime. I replaced my Cam solenoid, I thought it would relieve my misery. It did for a week. The oil light came back on like most
here in the forums only when coming to a stop after a drive. So I decided to replace my oil pressure sensor as well. So after a few days I thought I was on easy street.
Suddenly today the light came back on with the chime.. My oil level is perfect I change my oil every 5K miles. My engine runs quiet and my operating temp is fine too. No knocks or lifter clicks. My H3 is an 07 3.7 liter 129K miles. My throttle body and MAF sensor are clean. I maintain my truck perfectly. I was about to install a set of Stingers and replace the oem battery clamps. I'm open to you good members advice on What my next step should be. PLEASE!!! I'm afraid I will end up at the dealer. THANKS

There are 2 sensors 1. Oil pressure sensor 2. Oil pressure switch(above the oil filter). Which one did you replace?