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Rear Cargo Shelf (phase I)

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trailerpup

Active Member
Messages
43
Location
Colorado
Finally had some time over the holiday weekend to get on this project. Turned 4 solid aluminum posts 10 inches tall, sheet diamond plate 42 1/4 x 29 inches (90 degree brake on front and rear). Diamond plate goes in to Rhino Lining Tuesday after work. Phase II will be drawers? ...or? Thought I'd throw a couple pics up in case anyone has additional ideas...

IMG_6363_zps8f53185b.jpg


IMG_6366_zpsb59b08e0.jpg
 
rsc

rsc

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,087
Location
Tulsa
Looks good. Do you have the 10" cylinders mounted to the anchor points or is the shelf's weight holding it down?
 
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trailerpup

Active Member
Messages
43
Location
Colorado
Each 10 inch "post" is solid 1 1/2" aluminum bar stock with threaded holes at both ends. The bottom of each has a length of stainless allthread threaded into the "post" and attached in original holes on the floor. Then I used the original hold downs and fasteners screwed into the top end of each "post."
 
alrock

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,677
Location
Scottsdale
Nice clean lines! A drawer would be ideal, one that hangs from the shelf. You'll still have blank spaces on either side to tuck some infrequently needed items in the space between the sides of the drawer and the sides of the truck. The design thoughts in my head have had a similar construction, with doors in the tray that flip up to give access to those side spaces, or carve outs to hold tall items like a Powertank.
 
06 H3

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
looks awesome! I like that is aluminum and lightweight. I just took apart and threw out my wooden cargo unit. It weighed in at 52lbs and figured I would be better off ditching the weight.

This looks like a nice lightweight alternative.
 
cbetts

cbetts

NERD!!!
Messages
3,188
Location
Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Looks great Luke. Great way to keep your stuff contained and out of sight. Gonna be difficult to reach the stuff towards to front though. Drawers might help a bit.
 
SuperBuickGuy

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
I like it. I was going to build a shelf like that; but you're convinced me to steal your idea.
Is that shelf the even with seat when the seat is folded down?

You only need drawers if you're vertically challenged or have midget arms :)
 
T

trailerpup

Active Member
Messages
43
Location
Colorado
Thanks for the feedback so far everyone.

SBG; It is level with the seats when they are folded down. That was one of the reasons I put it at 10 inches.

cbetts; I miss running Bishop!

I was looking at heavy duty drawer slides today... I'd like it to be lockable. Will probably go with aluminum flat stock broke 90 degrees to form the bottom and sides of the drawer and aluminum flat stock on either end to complete the drawer. Trying to keep this thing as light a possible. Probably be a few weeks before I get it finished. Hopefully before Moab.

When I take the diamond plate out to drop off at the bed liner place I'll get some detail pictures of the posts.

I would say the diamond plate and posts are maybe 10 pounds so far.

Cost, so far:

The diamond plate was 100 dollars cut to size and the 90 degree brakes.

The "posts" were 30 dollars for the bar stock. I have a friend with a machine shop who cut and threaded them for me.

Hope this helps give folks some ideas.

Feedback, thoughts, ideas welcome!!
 
Medic_Morgan

Medic_Morgan

Well-Known Member
Messages
392
Location
San Diego, CA
Would you be willing to make/sell some posts since you have a friend that can thread them? Kind of like a little starter kit...


Sent from my secret lair bwaaahhahahahah
 
DJinCO

DJinCO

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,565
Location
Colorado - Sometimes Park County; usually Colo Spr
I think these are GREAT! I could use one of these also. If you ever think about making another one of these for sale, count me in! Seriously, I sure could use one of these.

My thought would be to put the small stuff into one of the gray plastic pans that one buys at Sam's and slide it under.
 
E

evldave

Well-Known Member
Messages
93
Location
somewhere west of north
Looks great! Might motivate me to replace my wood platform with aluminum :)

A few things to keep in mind that may/may not be applicable:


  • The 90 degree lip on the front (towards the back door) will catch items in your drawers...think lots of silverware in the drawer in your kitchen. It may look good, but might not work as well when you start piling stuff in the drawers. I made that mistake once, it was a pain to get the drawer open once something jammed in there.
  • If you use full-size slides, keep an eye on the left (hinge) side of the drawer - when the drawer pulls out it may hit your open rear door...you might need to space the hinge out a bit. One my design, the towers are offset towards the molding and I can't have a full-width drawer slide attached to them or it hits the door. Didn't think that one through fully :emb:
  • If you make your drawers slightly shorter than the depth of the platform, it leaves a nice wide hollow between the back of the drawer and the backs of the front seats - I great place for the 'I'll never need it unless I need it' items like tie-rods. This way those items are still easily accessible by folding down the seats, but won't mess up stuff in your drawers.
  • Finally, and maybe I think like a thief, but if you are trying to truly built a 'secure' area w/locking drawers, you'll need to replace the factory torque bolts with security bolts. Better yet would be to secure the platform from underneath (only accessible from an open unlocked drawer). Also, if you built your drawers with 1/2 height sides, or leave any area open between the drawers and rear seats, it wouldn't be too difficult to open the rear doors, fold the seats down, and access your drawers from there ;)

Looking forward to pictures of it lined...looks shiny! :)
 
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