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Torres's 07 H3 A.K.A "Die PANZER"

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
Yeah no need to go that expensive on a can, since it is the can quality and what not that matter and usually they are all the same like I said the hose that it comes with it it is cheap so just get something better that would actually stand heat. I went with the same one that one of the guys in the forum has.


Torres
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
man you got me thinking I should do this too. Did some reading up on it last night and they said this is important to add to boosted rigs..... for $20 I guess it's worth a shot!
 

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
man you got me thinking I should do this too. Did some reading up on it last night and they said this is important to add to boosted rigs..... for $20 I guess it's worth a shot!

That's what I say. I'll see how good it works after next oil change and see how much oil my engine spits out hopefully that way I can be on top of my game trying to keep the engine oil level optimal. Since the damn oil dip sticks is garbage I been 1 1/2 quarter lower and the thing would still read that I was good as if I had 6 quarts. Only way I know is when I drain the fluid every 3500-4,000 miles.


Torres
 

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
Well got back yesterday from training and first thing today. I installed my transmission cooler and fully by passed it. Took me about 3 hours most of it was trying to figure out how and where to set the cooler. Here it is I feel up the transmission cooler as to try an get as much air as possible as well to know exactly how much additions fluids the truck is going to need over stock quantity. The cooler took a good 3/4 of a quart of transmission oil. You smart folks do the math.
I'm running he same transmission cooler as our admin Alrock. As well bass my set up close to what he had. However I decide to leave the old radiator transmission pipes just in case. ( all I'll need is 2 short pieces of hoses). As i I plugged them poorly right now but I plan to plug them properly tomorrow. I pretty much used everything that the kit came with.
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Now all it's left is a the oil change which is being drain as I type. As I expected the oil cash can is dry but it was installed a little late from the last oil change. After this one I'll report if It catches any, and if so how much.



Torres
 

chaos254

Well-Known Member
Messages
577
Location
United States
Get rid of the stock connector(where the hard line connects to the rubber line). Mine were leaking and from what I read, it's a common failure point. I know there is a thread somewhere on it.

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Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
Panzer soon is going to get to rock some new bilstein's 7100 series shock...and a 1" body lift kit. Hell yeah can't wait till they arrive hopefully I can get the SOA and everything in before Moab.


Torres
 

Cyouincourt007

Pavement Prince
Messages
542
Location
Miami,Fl
Well got back yesterday from training and first thing today. I installed my transmission cooler and fully by passed it. Took me about 3 hours most of it was trying to figure out how and where to set the cooler. Here it is I feel up the transmission cooler as to try an get as much air as possible as well to know exactly how much additions fluids the truck is going to need over stock quantity. The cooler took a good 3/4 of a quart of transmission oil. You smart folks do the math.
I'm running he same transmission cooler as our admin Alrock. As well bass my set up close to what he had. However I decide to leave the old radiator transmission pipes just in case. ( all I'll need is 2 short pieces of hoses). As i I plugged them poorly right now but I plan to plug them properly tomorrow. I pretty much used everything that the kit came with.
f5fa5f46c23fa83b33ae9b38fd185ffa.jpg

33a6e0d44e85ddd9e4e1b6cf61cbb40c.jpg

Now all it's left is a the oil change which is being drain as I type. As I expected the oil cash can is dry but it was installed a little late from the last oil change. After this one I'll report if It catches any, and if so how much.



Torres

the trans cooler is something I'm seriously considering doing. Summer is starting here as far as the heat even though it's spring still. In The gridlock drive home today I just watched the needle rise to halfway as we approached 90 on my rear view temp thingy. Believe it or not I knew something was wrong last year when it said like 104 and I knew it wasn't 104 outside..turned out my fan clutch was shot and the car heat made the rear view temp monitor rise up. Anywho as I sat today and watched the needle and the rear view temp rise I could only imagine how hot the tranny fluid was. This bypass makes sense for that and to avoid the dreaded radiator coolant leak into tranny issue. What do you use to monitor the tranny temp and any other such important data from within the vehicle. Thanks in advance
 

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
the trans cooler is something I'm seriously considering doing. Summer is starting here as far as the heat even though it's spring still. In The gridlock drive home today I just watched the needle rise to halfway as we approached 90 on my rear view temp thingy. Believe it or not I knew something was wrong last year when it said like 104 and I knew it wasn't 104 outside..turned out my fan clutch was shot and the car heat made the rear view temp monitor rise up. Anywho as I sat today and watched the needle and the rear view temp rise I could only imagine how hot the tranny fluid was. This bypass makes sense for that and to avoid the dreaded radiator coolant leak into tranny issue. What do you use to monitor the tranny temp and any other such important data from within the vehicle. Thanks in advance


Yeah I feel you. Today it was 95 where I live with the new thermostat installed the needle has been always at the half way mark even in cold weather...which I hate it because my engine rarely used to pass the halfway mark on normal commuting distances 1/4 was the standard even with the 35"s. Now it is always half way. Anyways today I was cruising back from school and it jump to 3/4 and the AC fan shut off...and this happened even now that inhale the transmission by pass installed...wonder how worse would the temperature would become with the added heat from the transmission. Anyways right now I'm not monitoring the temperature with nothing...but I plan on getting a thermostat perhaps same one 06 H3 was running in his 3. Just to keep an eye on the temperature. I'm running the same cooler as Alrock and he lives in Arizona which is way hotter than here in SoCal so I have high hopes for it...specially since my old radiator actually broke and mixed some of the fluids at 86,000 something miles or so...luckily I catch it early so the dealer fixed it under warranty and nothing was damage. Now with the by pass I can be more at ease. I been meaning to touch the transmission cooler after a god distance drive but I keep forgetting.


Torres
 

Cyouincourt007

Pavement Prince
Messages
542
Location
Miami,Fl
True that, thanks. I have read here that the newer thermostats changed the temp and have the 3's running at half for normal operating temp. I stay at 1/4 except for times like meow with this gridlock and nasty heat the needle gos up. I have to hit up the junk yards to search for a replacement thermostat to hoard or if we could find one to use that doesn't put us at 1/2 I'd be down. Heck I'd even consider running without one but not sure that's a good idea.
If the old rad broke and mixed some fluids and you got it fixed under warranty consider yourself a very lucky man lol...I.m At 106k now and the clock is a ticking hehehe. Got to do something like radiator or cooler bypass asap perhaps. Thanks for the info I'll keep posted to see whatsup and likewise let you know if I come across anything.
 

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
True that, thanks. I have read here that the newer thermostats changed the temp and have the 3's running at half for normal operating temp. I stay at 1/4 except for times like meow with this gridlock and nasty heat the needle gos up. I have to hit up the junk yards to search for a replacement thermostat to hoard or if we could find one to use that doesn't put us at 1/2 I'd be down. Heck I'd even consider running without one but not sure that's a good idea.
If the old rad broke and mixed some fluids and you got it fixed under warranty consider yourself a very lucky man lol...I.m At 106k now and the clock is a ticking hehehe. Got to do something like radiator or cooler bypass asap perhaps. Thanks for the info I'll keep posted to see whatsup and likewise let you know if I come across anything.

Yeah no problem and for sure man. I also remember my dad taking the thermostat off his trucks, I was going to keep using my old one but the check engine light kept coming on...and yeah most definitely you should by pass the transmission or change your radiator all together specially those 106 miles are logged in the original radiator.


Torres
 

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
Yea I didnt see any record of radioator replacement or tranny fluid change when I got it with about 60k. :gaah: I'm iffy on doing a tranny flush at this point if it's never been done before.

Just bumped an interesting thread I found.

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...sion-Temp&highlight=Monitor+transmission+temp

Thanks for the link. And I did my transmission fluid change at 75,000 miles alone with all other fluids differential t-case, it didn't had record of it either being replace so I went ahead and did anyways old fluids were nicely red and the filters look new. Anyways ran with not problem until about 85-90,000 or so I can remember the exact mislaid the dealer flush it and did all their good stuff due to the radiator cracking. I got a magazine from summitracing the other day...they had those metal radiator's listed for 300 idk the size or what knots since I just looked thru it quick but in sure they beat the plastic oem one.


Torres
 

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
Well today decided to "grab my balls and cowboy the Fvck up" and adventure into seeing if I could find what was wrong with panzer transmission. Since the check engine light came on about a week ago...after reading some articles online. I had a rough idea of what I might be looking for...so I drop the transmission pan...and holly **** I felt overwhelmed for like 10 second so much crap in there. Anyways the code I got said something about a circuit so decided to inspect the cables terminals and no **** one looked like it was ready to snap...I just touch it and it fall right off.
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There's two of them one with a green terminal and one with a red/orange terminal...I decide to go ahead and replace both...I ordered the replacement from Zach hopefully I can have them soon...while I was under I discover that my front driveshaft boot Is torn makes sense since it is the original one and I'm guessing with the rancho lift kit it finally gave out. Got the boot replacement too.
bb3569ef83008c1f9b02b6f965b7a96b.jpg

I also decided to go ahead and replace the Trasnfer Case fluids...and man that liquid was dirty. Look all grey and scheiße!!!


Torres
 

Fish

Well-Known Member
Messages
871
Location
San Diego, CA
I really really need to change my xfer case fluid, I never have and it's probably the original fluid from 05, I'm scared to see what it looks like.
 

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
I really really need to change my xfer case fluid, I never have and it's probably the original fluid from 05, I'm scared to see what it looks like.

I won't be too concerned about how bad it looks...first time I change mine about 25-6,000 miles the fluid was bad just like now...and I'm sure it was the original from 07...I remember people saying here that the transfer case fluid gets dirty fast. I'm going to change it again at 5-10,000 miles and see how red or grayish metal is by then and asses from there how soon to change it...what I'm scare of chafing is the axels fluids specially the front one which the cv axels have been leaking for about 6 months now...not a heavy leaking but still idk how much fluids are there left...as well the conditions since I have water cross some what deep water and mud pits. But the front axel and all component should be replace at the same time I replace that selenoid in the transmission and everything else...I don't like to replace just one thing unless it is a priority.
Anyways you should replace it and have the camera ready lol I didn't had mine ready so I didn't get a good picture of it. But let's just say that the fluid I put in 25,000 miles ago or so was red not grey lol


Torres
 

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
Well about 2-3 weeks ago panzer check engine light came on code P2763
, it turned out to be a bad solenoid so I went ahead an replace it...the solenoid of course it is inside the transmission pan so messy you must get while dropping down the transmission pan...but once that done it is pretty easy to get to the solenoid.
This is where the solenoid is and it is held in place by a tiny little retainer pin that inside between the crack (solenoid fluorescent pink, fluorescent green crack where the retaining pin is located)
b6e6f3cbde584504621e7c23c78f300c.jpg

Anyways once you replace that bad solenoid. Driving and the code should be all back to normal.
I just thought I did a fast write up on this code just in case someone else here gets it in the future.


Torres
 

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
Does this mean you will be going to Last Chance Canyon with us?

I was going, but yesterday I got 6 other codes all transmission related...I still got to do some more research and comparing to see what's the best route here either replace the sensor of have the transmission rebuild or get a new from Zach...whatever is more cost efficient.
Good thing I haven't rvsp to LLC Trip seems like lately panzer likes to brake before a run.


Torres
 

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
Panzer is getting a new battery. After reading about this different batteries and set ups I decide to go with one BFB (Big Fvcking Battery). I went ahead and order the ODYSSEY Marine Battery Model 31M-PC2150ST. This guy are close to where I live so it is great because this way I saved shipping which would of be somewhat high since it is a 70+ lbs battery.
aecc4a74f92fcf7ee7ac3ec65f92672c.jpg

The same place I bought this sells the bracket to mount it so went ahead and got it too, so I can properly mount the battery.
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As I went down to my local auto supply store and pick up some terminal from autozone.
Comes with different size holes which IMO is cool so I'd be able to plug some other scheiße. At the terminal such as lockers or my warn winch cables when I get it.
cfec6ec3254d4181caa6eec5d169c1aa.jpg

Now all I need are cables, Does anyone know how long the battery cables are in H3 ???.

Lastly hopefully this fixes the transmission problems I been having, since CJ and Zach and some other local mechanics suggested ...I doubt it will...but there's only one way to know. If the problems don't go away then I'm just going to replace the transmission.
On the bright side. I'd have now enough juice to power my e-lockers, winch and light if I get any and whatever other electrical gadgets.


Torres
 

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
Got a day off and before celebrating mother day I drop in panzer's new battery. Odyssey 31M PC-2150M.
Even tho the battery is huge as hell it dropped in like it belonged there.
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Not beaker would be needed it in order to make it work, and the OEM sling
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should be reusable if you cut it and sew a piece of sling material to make it longer as yo cal see in the pic is a tad short.
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You can go ahead and buy the bracket but that's $90 and I'm all about saving resources.





Torres
 
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