Torres's 07 H3 A.K.A "Die PANZER"

[Panzer07]

Another goodie just show up. Not a bad insurance for the differentials, t case and tranny. Once everything is done panzer is going to be beast.

Torres

 

[Panzer07]

Installed the ARB breather...front an rear axels are hooked up, and the breathing lines for the transfer case and Tranny are set, just to be hooked up to them once the tranny and t case are installed.
I heavy duty Velcro it to the firewall since I didn't want to make no holes still holds in place pretty good.

As well decided to take off the rancho shocks and prep them to send them to Luis alone with another set of the rear leaf springs from rancho,

hope the rancho guys don't give me crap when we meet again oh well and install the Bilsteins, so far was only able to installed one of the front one...since I'm still waiting for one that's shipping from the manufacturer.
Look good and fits perfect.

Had my little helper as well passing me tools.

and as for the rear one I need some bar pin eliminators and they on their way hopefully arrive here not later than Wednesday according to Amazon.
Here's the link for them if any one decides to go with 7100 shock or any Bilstein shock for that matter in the future. I'm pretty positive they will work but won't be sure until I install them.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005TTZI7M/ref=ya_st_dp_summary
Also the top mounting bracket it needs to be cut in order to allow the shocks hose to reservoir to fit without problem.
As it is.

Why does it need to be cut.

And once it is cut.

The reservoir might be in the way so I'll have to figure the best position for it so it doesn't get Fvcked when flexing by the sway bar when flexing and the sway bar disconnected or the frame or the exhaust pipe from rear passenger side...

Torres

 

[Panzer07]

Torres's 07 H3 A.K.A "Die PANZER"

Well came back from drill to the bar pin adapters arriving early so I decided to install the 7100 series Bilstein once and for all.
Originally had gone with this bar pin eliminators but didn't work since the bar pins were too fat for the shock holes which are 1/2" holes

So I returned and ordered another kit. Here is what the mount looks like.

http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Shock-Upper-Eliminator/dp/B00B2AFPRA
This one kit was cheaper and simpler, here they are all mounted and ready to be extended and collapse once in the trails. Deciding where the reservoir would be mounted was another issue that I resolved quickly.

And again my helper, and assistant verifying my work.

Torres

 

[Razor Steel]

Looks good Panzer!!!:horns:

 

[4speedfunk]

I've done a couple bar-pin-eliminator mods on H3's. It seems none are true bolt-on, and no matter the brand...there is usually some grinding or slotting required. I've used the Rough Country ones like this, and what really blows is that the upper shock bolt completely blocks access to the BPE mounting bolts. Also the top of the shock sits inside a "bowl" on the frame...and you can't slide the shock-bolt in or out because of the bowl. These two issues make installation a total PITA. Digglesworth came over with some that were made with the pin sitting 90 degrees from the Rough Country BPEs. The result is that the attachment bolts can be reached easily but, the upper shock bolt is now oriented left-to-right (not front-to-rear)...and this probably puts a lot of strain on the bushing during flexing. However given the choice...I'll take bolt access over bushing flex. Long-story short. I'm making my own next time.

 

[Panzer07]

I've done a couple bar-pin-eliminator mods on H3's. It seems none are true bolt-on, and no matter the brand...there is usually some grinding or slotting required. I've used the Rough Country ones like this, and what really blows is that the upper shock bolt completely blocks access to the BPE mounting bolts. Also the top of the shock sits inside a "bowl" on the frame...and you can't slide the shock-bolt in or out because of the bowl. These two issues make installation a total PITA. Digglesworth came over with some that were made with the pin sitting 90 degrees from the Rough Country BPEs. The result is that the attachment bolts can be reached easily but, the upper shock bolt is now oriented left-to-right (not front-to-rear)...and this probably puts a lot of strain on the bushing during flexing. However given the choice...I'll take bolt access over bushing flex. Long-story short. I'm making my own next time.

Agree, I find it easier to mount everything to the shock eyelet and leave the bolt/pin with the nut loose, so it slide side to side allowing you to maneuver a socket, then thread one of the mounting bolts just enough so it kept the shock and mount hanging, the. I removed the loose nut which allow me to slide the bolt/ pin enough to mount thread the other mounting bolt a bit too, and once that was done just Thread them both alternating side to side, since the holes in the mount are a bit wider than the mounting holes on the frame, not too bad of a job, what I had hard time was compressing the shock and keep them compress just long enough to run the bolt thru them. Now that was a real pita.

Anyways I'll keep an eye for your mounts when they are available. [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]


Torres

 

[Panzer07]

Well after about 8 hrs of work manage to replace and upgrade all of the insides of the tranny, all bushings rubber seals, frictions and steels, etc. could have had it close today of it hadn't been for a the bad band I received.

The pumped turn to be a task the one i was watching from the video, didn't match, so I had to look up the GM diagram lay out.
Anyways over all a great day.

Torres

 

[Sennin]

following with interst. nice setup

 

[Panzer07]

I receive the new band and aluminum accumulator pistons yesterday evening, and so I divided to tackle and finish the transmission project once and for all. Everything went smooth and simple for the most part, I'm still if'y when it comes to the Solenoids since they don't look like the oem ones but after inquiring 2 times they say that the one I got would work. I figure if worst Coke to worst and I get I code is throw in the old Solenoids or just get new oem ones and swap them which can be done by dropping the tranny pan.

Here some pics.

A sight of the new torque converter and my helper of course.

Planning on mounting it on on Sunday. Overall an awesome learning experience. And hope it last it at least another 50,000miles or so, that should give me enough to miles and time to save up and gather info and learn as much as possible for a new Diesel engine and all the hardware require for the swap on my own.


Torres

 

[Panzer07]

Torres's 07 H3 A.K.A "Die PANZER"

After finishing up Panzer's tranny this past Friday and having now a 4l70E (whatever that means) according to monster transmission. I went ahead and mounted it on Sunday, about an 8 hr job since I was by myself, and I got to say going to the gym to work my Nutella arms and not skipping leg day really helped in achieving mounting that sucker, which wasn't really hard at all compare to having to mount the damn T-case. that was a PITA to dismount and was not different mounting it back on, I somehow managed to brake the exhaust half back part that is held together by two bolts which were pretty damn rusted and had to get the bolt remove by a muffler shop since they were rust-welded and couldn't get them out. Anyways.
Here it the tranny as well you can see the tantton driveshaft installed.

And the New to Panzer adventure 4:1 Transfer case I bought from chocflip that has I believe 60k miles mine has 104k and was problem free, so I hope this T-case last me at least 44k miles without problem, I'm going to replace the fluids every 15k miles just to make sure the fluids don't become all nasty.

Now Panzer needs a Dust-off/spiderweb Shake Down Wheeling Trip. As well I got to thank Zach for being patience and helping me out figuring out why I was still having transmission codes after I've installed all. I must say I was a bit overwhelmed and bummed and almost second guess my work skills, since I was having electrical related transmission codes. As always I like to over think scheiße and was thinking I have got bad electronics or perhaps my transmission connector cable or the cable harness was fried and was causing the electrical problem. Anyways I sent the codes I got to Zach to have him ask his tranny techs what could be the problem, and no sh!t it turned out to be something really simple, a god damn fuse.

Anyways I guess my fried turbine speed sensor had blown the fused, and my dumba$$ didn't thought about checking the fuse.

Also here are the links to the YouTube videos I used to assist me in my rebuilt, in case any of you mates here decide to take on the awesome adventure of rebuilding a tranny.
This guys has a lot of different transmission videos and are detail but I feel is not for really dummies or beginners like myself.
http://youtu.be/BQgQIyIhI0o


However I find this channel to have the most detailed and dummy proofed step-by-step videos about 4l60E.
Most common problems on the 4L60E
http://youtu.be/mcUo3rDHaLU

Complete tear down part 1 lesson 1
http://youtu.be/ZuE6zwYHj4Q

Complete assembling upgrading and part checking part 2 lesson 1
http://youtu.be/OErip2k4Q1M

The transmission pump disassembling and reassembling part is the only one I found to be different than the one our trucks have or at least the 07 tranny I have, I had to look up the GM H3 diagram to reassemble the valves and springs in the tranny pump since the ones he shows are different.


Finally I have mixed feeling when it come to whether I'd recommend Monster Transmission to anybody that plans on rebuilding their tranny themselves. Here is my take the price is alright I guess $800 for the overhaul upgrade kit, and $200 for a new rebuilt and upgraded torque converter . I have only 2 problems and 2 complains, first problem I received a chipped band, to which I call them up and they sent me a new one, second problem they forgot to pack the upgraded aluminum accumulator Pistons, which they sent out with the band. The complain I have is that they shipped the replacement band and piston standard ground shipping which means it took over a week to receive the scheiße and slowed down work and progress. I mean when they messed up like that the least they can do is have 2-3 day shipping at least, specially when what they shipping is light and small.
Also there is no invoice or packing check list to know exactly what you getting (example the missing accumulator piston, that I only find out I was missing them led me to inquire about them because of the videos mentioning them and therefore I inquired to monster transmission if they were suppose to be in the kit or if I have to purchase separately to which they agree they fail to packed) nor it is all the components organized or labeled as set of a specific area where they go , so you have to find things by matching them and look alike and make sure it is what you need which isn't too hard but since i like to be certain it took longer. I know these are little stuff but then again worth mentioning, other than that I have nothing but great things to say about them they answered and get back to you promptly.


Torres

 

[06 H3]

congrats on a trans rebuild. That's not easy

 

[Panzer07]

Last nite scored what seems to be a great deal GM 10 bolt with Eton LSD locker, 4:88's gear which will be swapped for 5:13's, 28 spinel whatever that means, and warn lock outs. Going to have to research my scheiße on differentials.
Can't wait to dive into this new project, might take me a year to gather all the components, but plenty of time to learn the in's and out's.

Loading the sucker into Panzer's belly was quite a task, and a tight fit to say the least.
I can wait to start messing with it one I get a day off Wednesday and Thursday.

Torres

 

[RazorbackH3]

Congrats on the find! Should fit Panzer's "kick a$$ and take no prisoners" personality well.

 

[4speedfunk]

Torres's 07 H3 A.K.A "Die PANZER"

Nice!
Dump the LSD, and 28-spline shafts. Upgrade to an Eaton E-locker and 30 spline chromo shafts. Then you'll have a stout assembly to build on.
Start looking for some Dana 44 flat top knuckles too. You'll need those for crossover steering.

 

[Panzer07]

Nice!
Dump the LSD, and 28-spline shafts. Upgrade to an Eaton E-locker and 30 spline chromo shafts. Then you'll have a stout assembly to build on.
Start looking for some Dana 44 flat top knuckles too. You'll need those for crossover steering.

Plan on replacing the LSD with an OX locker.

And as for upgrading the 28-spline shaft to a 30-Spline shaft. Are there aftermarket carriers that designed from the start for the 30-spline shaft upgrade, and if so are there any brand you would recommend, same goes for the chromo shaft any brands ?

Thank you.



Torres

 

[Panzer07]

Congrats on the find! Should fit Panzer's "kick a$$ and take no prisoners" personality well.

Thanks mate, and that's the plan, rolling down on 40's. Even if it means traveling not faster than 55-60 mph, not too bad of draw back keeping in mind that I hardly go pass 60-65 anyways. But hoping with the 5.13 gear ratio it all remains the same.


Torres

 

[4speedfunk]

30 spline carriers are the norm for most of the aftermarket diffs. In fact...you might have issues finding 28 spline units. So it's a good idea to convert to the 30 spline. OX, Eaton, or ARB are all good choices, since they are single-trac when not engaged. Also if you are on a tight budget, you can grab a 4-series GM open carrier for very little dough. I'm 90% sure a Hummer H3 rear carrier (single or E-locker) will drop right in. Lastly....you can convert 28 spline to 30 by merely swapping the side gears inside the diff.
On the shafts...there are many sources: Yukon, G2, USA Alloy, RCV, etc. Prices range from $550 up to $1200.

 

[Panzer07]

Torres's 07 H3 A.K.A "Die PANZER"

30 spline carriers are the norm for most of the aftermarket diffs. In fact...you might have issues finding 28 spline units. So it's a good idea to convert to the 30 spline. OX, Eaton, or ARB are all good choices, since they are single-trac when not engaged. Also if you are on a tight budget, you can grab a 4-series GM open carrier for very little dough. I'm 90% sure a Hummer H3 rear carrier (single or E-locker) will drop right in. Lastly....you can convert 28 spline to 30 by merely swapping the side gears inside the diff.
On the shafts...there are many sources: Yukon, G2, USA Alloy, RCV, etc. Prices range from $550 up to $1200.

Thank you for all the info.
I'd get on researching and reading review of the components tomorrow. Plan to take my time as not to be on a budget and this way ensure I get the best stuff that have worked for other people regardless of price.

As for today I managed to cut off the old mounts and even up the tube where the welds were and leave the tube surface as smooth as possible, afterwards wired brushed the whole thing from the outside, wash it all and paint mainly focusing on the newly expose steel from removing the old mounts.

Amazing what a good scrubbing and some paint can do.

I was going to start the disassembling, however I don't have some of the needed tools.



Torres

 

[4speedfunk]

Torres's 07 H3 A.K.A "Die PANZER"

You'll need a Dana hub nut socket., a ball joint sleeve socket, and a small 90-degree pick. A big copper or brass sledge comes in handy as well.

 

[Panzer07]

Have put about 800 miles to the rebuilt tranny and still runs and shift good, however. I noticed or feels like I don't have 4th gear sometimes when at highway speeds of over 70 MPH. Have no codes nor engine light on so IDK.

Torres

 

[Panzer07]

Finally after a year or so later I was came up across some military vehicle antenna mounts and base.
So I got on this as soon as time allowed it.
Installed the first one on Thursday.

And the second one today...after buying some longer bolts for the to top mounting hole, as well some shims to correct the lean/camber do to the shape of the body.

I must say I was hesitant on mounting them there I didn't know how strong the body was and if they would take the abuse of driving, but after messing around bending and releasing and letting the antenna shake/vibrate and come to a stop I was amaze as to how much the aluminum mounting brackets bends and absorbs whatever vibration the springs doesn't.
Also I'm pretty set and able to run the antenna's fully extended. And still be under the height of a semi. Which means I won't be hitting no street, or light signs, or cables.
They do bring up more attention lol. Over all I'm happy. I'd probably only hook one antenna probably thinking on skipping the CB radio and jump on a HAM one instead get license and whatever I need.


Torres

 

[john7982]

So did the oil catch can workout the way you thought it would

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[Panzer07]

So did the oil catch can workout the way you thought it would

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Yes and no...I'm still short in oil after each change. But at least there isn't no oil going into the throttle area. Have seen no accumulation of oil in the can, and there's no visible tell sign that the motor is leaking So idk, maybe it evaporates since is synthetic who knows.


Torres

 

[john7982]

Thanks for the info thinking about one for mine

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[Panzer07]

Thanks for the info thinking about one for mine

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No problem.
It is a good cheap insurance IMO, when I added the can, there was signs of oil in my air doc tube not much but still some oil, now with the can the thing was clean, it only been there for less than 5,000 miles or So.


Torres