Torres's 07 H3 A.K.A "Die PANZER"

[JPaul]

I'd probably only hook one antenna probably thinking on skipping the CB radio and jump on a HAM one instead get license and whatever I need.


Torres

I'd still run a CB even if you get your Ham license and a radio. That way no matter who you are with or where you are you should be able to talk to someone. A lot of offroaders just run CB's, and it's better for simple calls back and forth or guiding someone over an obstacle. Not having to give your call sign on CB also makes it a little bit handier for quick casual stuff. Ham is better suited to longer distance talking and more formal communication. Once I get around to it I'll have both a Uniden CB and my Icom 2 meter amateur radio mounted in my H3.

Plus, those antennas may not be suited to any of the usual VHF/UHF frequencies (2 meters might be ok at full wavelength, but 1.25 meters, 70 centimeters, etc might get weird), they'd probably be great for 10 meters (which is just above the 11 meter band CB is on), and maybe 15, 20, and 40 meters if you loaded it properly.

I strongly suggest finding someone in your area that is offering a training class for the technician level license, it's usually just a couple days and will teach you the basics you need to pass the exam. It's pretty cheap as well, they are doing one here for $35 which includes lunch one day and the manual. That's usually the rate you'll see for the classes I think. You can check here as a starting point for a search for classes near you:

http://www.arrl.org/find-an-amateur-radio-license-class

Plus you can find stuff online for free, and the exam questions are published so you can also study those as well before you go and take the test. When you do go take the test, they will let you keep testing until you fail (in the same sitting that is), so if you pass the technician level test, you can take the test for general in that same sitting, and if you pass that, you can take the test for extra in that same sitting. That's how I ended up with my general class license, I tested for the technician and since I passed that, they let me keep going with the general class, which I also passed. I probably should have kept trying for extra, but I passed the general by one question, so I didn't think I was going to be able to pass the extra. One of these days I'll get off my rear and study for the extra and get that level as well.

 

[Panzer07]

I'd still run a CB even if you get your Ham license and a radio. That way no matter who you are with or where you are you should be able to talk to someone. A lot of offroaders just run CB's, and it's better for simple calls back and forth or guiding someone over an obstacle. Not having to give your call sign on CB also makes it a little bit handier for quick casual stuff. Ham is better suited to longer distance talking and more formal communication. Once I get around to it I'll have both a Uniden CB and my Icom 2 meter amateur radio mounted in my H3.

Plus, those antennas may not be suited to any of the usual VHF/UHF frequencies (2 meters might be ok at full wavelength, but 1.25 meters, 70 centimeters, etc might get weird), they'd probably be great for 10 meters (which is just above the 11 meter band CB is on), and maybe 15, 20, and 40 meters if you loaded it properly.

I strongly suggest finding someone in your area that is offering a training class for the technician level license, it's usually just a couple days and will teach you the basics you need to pass the exam. It's pretty cheap as well, they are doing one here for $35 which includes lunch one day and the manual. That's usually the rate you'll see for the classes I think. You can check here as a starting point for a search for classes near you:

http://www.arrl.org/find-an-amateur-radio-license-class

Plus you can find stuff online for free, and the exam questions are published so you can also study those as well before you go and take the test. When you do go take the test, they will let you keep testing until you fail (in the same sitting that is), so if you pass the technician level test, you can take the test for general in that same sitting, and if you pass that, you can take the test for extra in that same sitting. That's how I ended up with my general class license, I tested for the technician and since I passed that, they let me keep going with the general class, which I also passed. I probably should have kept trying for extra, but I passed the general by one question, so I didn't think I was going to be able to pass the extra. One of these days I'll get off my rear and study for the extra and get that level as well.

Good deal thanks for all the info, I'd definitely going to get on it. I appreciate it.


Torres

 

[Panzer07]

Well Saturday morning I took off the rancho front suspension in preparation for the coming up SAS.
I must say it is way easier to take it off than to install it.
Anyways the chopping and Grinding should start soon.

Also today I got started on the rear getting all ready for the SOA. Manage to accomplish getting the axle off and grind off one of the leaf spring hangers. Hopefully I get to chop the other one tomorrow and have the reader finish soon.

This is it gents...there no turning around from here now !.




Torres

 

[Bigunit]

Good luck Torres. Can't wait to see the end result. Also, let me know when I can get the rear Rancho sets of springs from you so I can start my project.

 

[4speedfunk]

This is it gents...there no turning around from here now !.

Yup. Let the emotional and financial roller-coaster roll!

 

[Panzer07]

Good luck Torres. Can't wait to see the end result. Also, let me know when I can get the rear Rancho sets of springs from you so I can start my project.

For sure, you didn't get back to me last time, anyways I am going to sd again next month I'll let you know.

Yup. Let the emotional and financial roller-coaster roll!

For real, hahaha the financial roller-coaster already got me couple of weeks ago when I had to pissed off $4k on a new refrigerator.



Torres

 

[Panzer07]

Well made some more progress today, got the chance to cut off both of the stock leaf spring hangers. Some clean ass cuts and not bad for only using an angle grinder IMO.

Torres

 

[4speedfunk]

Hopefully you marked the old spring holes first.

 

[Panzer07]

Hopefully you marked the old spring holes first.

No I didn't, but the hangers cuts came off cleaned so I can mock it up and mark it or just use Chris truck for reference measure and weld.


Torres

 

[4speedfunk]

Yeah...use his truck to measure from. The problem is that leaf springs "grow" in length as weight gets applies to them. This makes it challenging to get the mounts in the right spot.

 

[Panzer07]

Made some more progress today. 7 cut-off wheels, 12 beer later and about 2 hrs of grinding I manage to cut off some stuffs from the driver side

the to shock housing, upper control arm, and bump stop. Took off the steering rack, and I believe I cut a line I shouldn't have, but with panzer being that spent her first 4-5 years up state NY a lot of hints are rusted and rust-weld so scheiße doesn't budge easy most of the time. Anyways clean it as good I could get it. Good slow yet smooth process over here IMO.

I think it is for the rear break, after icing them I was scared and glad I didn't blow myself up since they could have been fuel line...oh well nothing happened and I'd be more careful when I cut stuffs.

Torres

 

[4speedfunk]

Torres's 07 H3 A.K.A "Die PANZER"

Ugh...that's gonna take forever with a grinder. Looks good though. Other comments:
Loose the front sway bar. And yes....you'll probably snap the bolts off in the frame.
That brake line coupler fitting (by the lower radiator hose) must also go...take the short brake lines off with it. The longer lines (shown disconnected in your photo), can stay. Pull them loose from the frame (back to the tranny crossmember) and re-shape them to run directly up to the master cylinder. Make sure you keep the order straight. You'll also need to bend them to avoid the upper link mount that gets welded to the side of the frame rail.
Make sure you tie off your steering wheel so it cannot rotate.
The drivers-side frame rail area is very tight and it's the worst part of the entire swap. You'll need to "plate & sleeve" the frame to accept the new steering box....parts coming your way.

 

[Panzer07]

I figure is going to take longer than just using a plasma cutter but since I'm really not in a hurry and since I don't have one and probably won't need one in the future, I didn't wanted to do the investment. And @5 bucks a set of 10 wheel discs at harbor freight is a cheap trade off.
As well I just haven't got around to remove that sway bar. the bolts are rusted and the hexagon head stripped so I'd have to cut it off. But that's an easy cut and since it hasn't been on the way it has manage to remain there 'till now.
Thanks for the breaks breakdown on what to do I will do that, as well the steering. Is there a way to revolt the cross sounding joint in the steering rod/sleeve or that's just a thing that must be replace ?


Torres

 

[4speedfunk]

Nothing wrong with using a case of cut-off wheels. In many ways, they are better. They cut clean, with minimal heat and chance of fire. It just takes longer and sometimes it's hard to get a grinder into tight spaces.

You lost me on that last question?

 

[Panzer07]

Nothing wrong with using a case of cut-off wheels. In many ways, they are better. They cut clean, with minimal heat and chance of fire. It just takes longer and sometimes it's hard to get a grinder into tight spaces.

You lost me on that last question?

This part sir. I'm talking about the twisties iron crosses looking things

I know the ones in the driveshafts are serviceable if needed but this one don't seem to have the Retention clips u remove to take it apart.

 

[4speedfunk]

That's the "intermediate" steering shaft. And no the u-joints are not serviceable. There is a pinch-bolt on the upper end where it attaches to the "upper" steering shaft, and it telescopes about 1-1/2". You can get a new shaft from GM if you need it. Whatever you do...make sure the steering wheel does not rotate while you got things apart.
Notice the lower clamp is smooth-bore with flats on it? You'll have to grind the round, splined input shaft of the Nissan box to fit this GM clamp.
For some reason the intermediate shaft seems to be a common warranty replacement item. Frankly, I've never run across a bad one...but lots of guys replace them.

 

[Panzer07]

make sure the steering wheel does not rotate while you got things apart.

Notice the lower clamp is smooth-bore with flats on it? You'll have to grind the round, splined input shaft of the Nissan box to fit this GM clamp.

For some reason the intermediate shaft seems to be a common warranty replacement item. Frankly, I've never run across a bad one...but lots of guys replace them.

Hat might be a bit too late it already moved when I was taking the steering rack off once it free it spin and didn't secure it till later when I read your email.
And yeah I made a note of that about grinding the xterra box.
And mine is not defective yet per say but it is old. So I was thinking on replacing it.

 

[06 H3]

Check if your horn works. If it doesn't then the wire spun and ripped. No horn and no air bags. I don't know if they are bitch or not to replace but 4speed might know

 

[4speedfunk]

Torres's 07 H3 A.K.A "Die PANZER"

The horn check will tell u if the ribbon cable has been snapped but, that's only one issue. The other issue is the steering angle sensor at the base of the column....it has to be in the "center" position or the dash lights will go crazy.
Normally the ribbon cable's limits exceed the stop-to-stop travel of your steering, so as long as the rack (or box) is hooked up, everything is good. But when the wheel gets turned while disconnected...you can lose true center...and there's no way to tell if you are off by a turn. Normally you have about 1.5 to 2 turns (in each direction) before the ribbon cable will snap.
If you are EXTREMELY gentle...you might be able to VERY SLOWLY rotate the wheel and "feel" for the cable to stop the wheel. Keep in mind that the ribbon cable is a very thin, fragile piece of plastic and you might not be able to feel it bottom out. Make a note of where the wheel stops (in each direction)...then split the difference. That will be dead center. Straighten the H3 logo on the wheel and tie it off to the brake pedal for the duration of the project. This is a very risky technique and you didn't hear it from me.
The correct technique requires pulling the column and replacing both the sensor and the smart switch...not easy it cheap.

 

[Panzer07]

Yeah Im going to check if the horn work today, but I'm pretty sure the cable snapped. Oh F...Long story short I had my 2 year old daughter playing inside the cabin for a little bit since there was no one to watch her. I guess another work bullet to add to the list.


Torres

 

[4speedfunk]

Dude the same exact thing happened to me! A friend stopped by and his kid got inside the Hummer (up on blocks), and he was shifting gears and spinning the wheel...totally ganked it all up! If your horn has quit working and you get an airbag light...you're probably going to have to pull the column out...get it locked in the center position...and install a new smart switch & steering angle sensor. You can do the shaft replacement at the same time if you wish. None of this is difficult but, it does require you to pretzel yourself to get the column out.

The nice thing is...the new parts come with tiny plastic lock-pins installed in them, right out of the box. The idea is that you get the column locked to center...install the new parts...then install the column back in the truck...then get the steering system hooked up...all with the entire thing LOCKED TO CENTER. Then when you get everything hooked up and sitting dead center...you pull the tiny lock pins from the smart switch, the steering angle sensor, and the column itself. After that, you install the airbag and you're done. Huge PITA considering what you're trying to achieve.

So the moral of the story is...ALWAYS LOCK YOUR COLUMN WHEN WORKING ON THE STEERING SYSTEM. It will save you hundreds of dollars and hours of farting around. Links below:

New smart switch here>>>>http://www.carid.com/2009-hummer-h3...eknHuYSnN4ndF6nG1-cH3CpzjJJrOuKMToaAtEP8P8HAQ

New steering sensor here>>>>http://www.1aauto.com/steering-posi...P7Zzd8LUzoeF55zsXF7QNvb9DGG2RxOa1QaAtGT8P8HAQ

Column Lock Pin here>>>>http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kent-Moore-GM-Steering-Column-Anti-Rotation-Pin-J-42640-/390563308436

GM steering column PDF download from Schwarttzy (Thanks Eric!!!) http://schwarttzy.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Hummer-H3-Steering-Wheel-Column-1.pdf

 

[Panzer07]

Dude the same exact thing happened to me! A friend stopped by and his kid got inside the Hummer (up on blocks), and he was shifting gears and spinning the wheel...totally ganked it all up! If your horn has quit working and you get an airbag light...you're probably going to have to pull the column out...get it locked in the center position...and install a new smart switch & steering angle sensor. You can do the shaft replacement at the same time if you wish. None of this is difficult but, it does require you to pretzel yourself to get the column out.

The nice thing is...the new parts come with tiny plastic lock-pins installed in them, right out of the box. The idea is that you get the column locked to center...install the new parts...then install the column back in the truck...then get the steering system hooked up...all with the entire thing LOCKED TO CENTER. Then when you get everything hooked up and sitting dead center...you pull the tiny lock pins from the smart switch, the steering angle sensor, and the column itself. After that, you install the airbag and you're done. Huge PITA considering what you're trying to achieve.

So the moral of the story is...ALWAYS LOCK YOUR COLUMN WHEN WORKING ON THE STEERING SYSTEM. It will save you hundreds of dollars and hours of farting around. Links below:

New smart switch here>>>>http://www.carid.com/2009-hummer-h3...eknHuYSnN4ndF6nG1-cH3CpzjJJrOuKMToaAtEP8P8HAQ

New steering sensor here>>>>http://www.1aauto.com/steering-posi...P7Zzd8LUzoeF55zsXF7QNvb9DGG2RxOa1QaAtGT8P8HAQ

Column Lock Pin here>>>>http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kent-Moore-GM-Steering-Column-Anti-Rotation-Pin-J-42640-/390563308436

GM steering column PDF download from Schwarttzy (Thanks Eric!!!) http://schwarttzy.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Hummer-H3-Steering-Wheel-Column-1.pdf

Well my Horne still works so I guess she didn't snapped it. I'd do as explain here thank you again CJ and Chris !!!

 

[Panzer07]

More SAS components being inspected by German inspector...al this feels Like A little jigsaw puzzle.

Thanks CJ I'd send the hubs in the next couple of day...just been really busy and haven't got around to it, my apologies.


Torres

 

[4speedfunk]

Its a mechanical Jenga puzzle!

I encourage customers to do things in a specific order, to keep from going nuts:

1. Start with the axle build...and focus entirely on it, until you get it ready to be installed.
2. Then order parts for the suspension.
3. Then cut the stock IFS off.
4. Then get the axle located under the truck where you want it.
5. Then start welding the front suspension on.
6. Kick it off the jacks, and set the right height...align the axle and set the wheel base.
7. Weld-on the shock mounts (or hoops).
8. Measure and order the shocks.
9. Start on the steering system.

There is a whole host of other tasks...brake lines, rear SOA mod, alignment, turning stops, bump stops, etc. It can be very depressing to only look at the summit of the mountain! Things go much easier if you stick to individual tasks, keep your head down, and focus entirely on the path right in front of you. Don't look up to the summit! This is the mistake that lots of guys make. They get overwhelmed. Just make a list...do the tasks one at a time...and before you know it, you'll have the summit in sight. Then you can get pumped, and make the final push to the top.

Its the psychology of mechanics. Anyone doing this mod really needs to read a book called "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance". It discusses in depth, the entire process of tackling projects like this and how to be successful at them. Great read.

 

[06 H3]

The hummer is all done then realized I grabbed one of the wrong 14 bolt shafts. There are different lengths. Back to the yard. Other then that it's done. Once it's finished (hoping tomorrow) then I can bring you my SOA setup rear axle and help weld on the spring hangers