Torres's 07 H3 A.K.A "Die PANZER"

[Panzer07]

Its a mechanical Jenga puzzle!

I encourage customers to do things in a specific order, to keep from going nuts:

1. Start with the axle build...and focus entirely on it, until you get it ready to be installed.
2. Then order parts for the suspension.
3. Then cut the stock IFS off.
4. Then get the axle located under the truck where you want it.
5. Then start welding the front suspension on.
6. Kick it off the jacks, and set the right height...align the axle and set the wheel base.
7. Weld-on the shock mounts (or hoops).
8. Measure and order the shocks.
9. Start on the steering system.

There is a whole host of other tasks...brake lines, rear SOA mod, alignment, turning stops, bump stops, etc. It can be very depressing to only look at the summit of the mountain! Things go much easier if you stick to individual tasks, keep your head down, and focus entirely on the path right in front of you. Don't look up to the summit! This is the mistake that lots of guys make. They get overwhelmed. Just make a list...do the tasks one at a time...and before you know it, you'll have the summit in sight. Then you can get pumped, and make the final push to the top.

Its the psychology of mechanics. Anyone doing this mod really needs to read a book called "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance". It discusses in depth, the entire process of tackling projects like this and how to be successful at them. Great read.

Thank you CJ, I definitely I'm sort of all over the place, but I'd stay on objective, as much as possible. And I shouldn't have a problem staying motivated, only thing I was nervous and hesitant it was when it came to welding the angle tower , coil and shock mounts on the axle, but after looking at the pic you sent me, I think I got it down. I'd just keep taking my time...no need to rush things. Like we say in the army, "Slow is smooth, smooth is fast".

The hummer is all done then realized I grabbed one of the wrong 14 bolt shafts. There are different lengths. Back to the yard. Other then that it's done. Once it's finished (hoping tomorrow) then I can bring you my SOA setup rear axle and help weld on the spring hangers

And sounds good Chris can wait to see that new monger for rear axle you got. And I appreciate the help, and just let me know you know I'm Available any day from 0830-2100.

 

[Panzer07]

We finally made it work and Chris came down to help with Panzer's SOA.

it was a pretty easy and fast process keeping in mind I'm using his rear axle since he upgraded his. Anywyas it still needs some more tweaking here and there, such as getting the brake calipers, abs sensors, shocks hooked up, new frame hanger bushings, airbags in place of bump stops, etc, but at least she is sitting on her two rear wheels now.

Wishbone had more free time to work but lately time is a luxury.

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[GreatDaneHummer]

I wish Thor Parts made stuff for a dana 60 swap in the front!!! lol

 

[06 H3]

its adaptable. D44 brackets are very adaptable to the D60 tubes. Brake kit will require some work as did my D44 8 lug swap but its doable.

 

[GreatDaneHummer]

Some day I would like to do a dana 60 front and rear but by then I might just rebuild an H1

 

[poncho1965]

Quite the project going on! Wish I had the mech knowledge. Should be worth the effort!

 

[CaddyStrophic]

Any updates?

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[Panzer07]

Any updates?

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Things haven't moved much since last update. Ive got caught up with army training school stuffs, so that took my time, and then my mom became il so I'll had to help her out financially since her insurance don't cover much.
But thankfully everything is coming settling down...


What else...I'll took advantage of Ballistic fab 25% sale that they just had, ordered adjustable shock towers, heim joints, frame link brackets, etc.

Was reminded again not to order truck parts when you've been drinkinh...since I ordered two shock towers or so of thought I failed to read that they were sold as pairs. Oh well good thing going they can be return.

As of right now I'm expecting to have panzer on the road by late September early oktover. Mainly cause the Ballistic fab joints are in back order and they say they won't be ready to ship until late September.

Was able to find the midpoint of my steering wheel without damaging the cables, tide it and secure it so it doesn't move.
That's the update up to now

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[Panzer07]

Some more goodies showed up today...still need RH Joints but they are on back order and will ship when available. Some more goodies on the way. So happy to get this project going.

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[Panzer07]

Work on some more on panzer...took care of the H1 Rhino spare tire carrier.
I went ahead and ordered a 2 1/2 inches adapter from 8 to 6 lug...in order to be able to mount the spare tire since it is for an 8 lug and not for a 6 lug, as well the extra thickness is to provide more space to clear a 42' mtr wrangler tire...which I should upgrade next year.

.

As you can see it looks like it belonged there since day 1.

With this Rhino spare tire carrier I don't have to worry about the weight or raising and lowering such a big heavy tire as is a (42) since it comes up and down.

Also I went ahead and order a spare tire plate mount to relocate my rear plate. Nothing fancy picked it up from amazon work decent.but for 20 bucks it should do, have to make some small cuts in order to make it work.

I'm going to wait until I get the 42's in order to fab some gas can carrier mount like this one.

Since I'd like for the cans to ride behind the tire carrier instead of side by side like this model.

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[Panzer07]

After all I think ill have enough space in between.

As u might notice it leans to the back but that's because It only has 2 bottom mounts, I'm planning on adding an addition 2 for the top which should keep it even and flushed.

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[???]

Nice work, you have ballz of steel for taking on such a project! I dig the paint!

 

[4speedfunk]

Take it for a high speed drive down a bumpy gravel road, and see if it's still there after ten miles.


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[Panzer07]

Take it for a high speed drive down a bumpy gravel road, and see if it's still there after ten miles.


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Hahaha I'm sure it will...once I'm done reinforcing it right now it is held on by the two bolts from the recovery point...my plan is two drill 2 more at top and run a L like shaper bracket to the frame rail so it bolts...and might even take it a step further and drill 2 more at the bottom and just run an extra plate behind them reinforcing them and all 6 bolts that would be attached to the frame that should be more than enough strength imo.
Worst c9me to worst I'd add a bracket on the tail gate with a quick release pin just for added control so it doesn't lean like it does now if the bracket I have plan isn't strong enough...or might just have to get the ARB or one of your bumper with some real steel bumper instead the paper thick that gm put for bumper.

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[Panzer07]

Nice work, you have ballz of steel for taking on such a project! I dig the paint!

Nah im just missing a couple of screws in the head, just wish I had more time to get this project done...I just have a bunch of little things going at once, which depleats me from time and capital, not to mention fam...a 3 yrs old and a 1 yr old who's been walking for the past months really demand a great deal of time.
But hopefully before feb it is back on the road operational and just work on the small little side project of have going with it as well.

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[Panzer07]

After messing around a little with the machine and tuning my hand...I went ahead and tacked the axle bracket...darkness came down so I stop tomorrow with good light and after double checking the brackets I'll go ahead and we'll them permanently.

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[Panzer07]

Things are starting to fall in place and stating to look like something

Not bad for a rookie I think

Just need to pick up more grade 8 bolts for all the scheiße.

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[Panzer07]

This is the update of the SAS for those who aren't on fb or Instagram.
All brackets on axle are welded, went ahead and slide under to mocked up what it should look like. So far I'm will seem like it will seat at 29/30" from fender to hub that it is including the 1" body-lift.

I have come to realize that welding in itself is not hard not too time consuming, however measuring, setting up, tacking, re checking measure and finally welding is what I'm itself is time consuming, work on it today since 0820 til 1400, and just manage to have the inner track-bar and all 3 coil and shock tower mounts weld on the the frame as well had time to mount the driver side coil bucket and shock towers.

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[rascole]

Looking good.

 

[4speedfunk]

Nice. Do you plan to run the stock Nissan pitman with the GM DLE on the top?


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[Panzer07]

Both control arms all done (bottom), steering link (middle), and track bar link (top) frame bracket.

Also im using this dom tube reinforcement things from ruff stuffs just so they act as Skid plates maybe ad a little strength but main for Skid

frame bracket.

Now I just need the upper link arn and all link would be done, we'll at least the welding and cutting...need to pull the axle out scrub the rust off from the rain on...and paint it same for the frame and brackets.

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[Panzer07]

Nice. Do you plan to run the stock Nissan pitman with the GM DLE on the top?


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I do, hpwe er I'm bolting it under. I need to buying a 1 ton GM reamer, and I'm using one of those 1 ton GM sleeves from ruff stuff I can not run it on top there's no space unless I unscrew the little grease nipple and even then I don't think there space. You are right sir...thing are pretty snug under there with the 3 when it comes to trying to place brackets

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[4speedfunk]

I just recently "flipped" my drag-link connection from the bottom to the top. When I upgraded to my new front axle, I also re-configured the steering. I originally had a custom made "flat" pitman arm with the DLE installed on the bottom side. I decided to swap that out for the stock Nissan pitman (like yours) and flip the DLE so it bolted in from the top. Like you...I discovered that the grease fitting would hit the bottom of the frame. So I ended up notching the bottom of the frame rail. I grabbed a piece of .250" wall square tube steel and welded it in to create the notch. There are photos of it on here somewhere.

Your front axle looks angled "nose-up" in that last photo. Many people instinctively think they should raise the pinion of the axle upward, so it is directly pointing at the transfer case. WRONG. Be aware that this will reduce your caster angle to near-zero, resulting in horrific death wobble. You must make sure your caster angle is at least 3 to 4 degrees, or you will have some very dangerous handling issues. Caster is required to stabilize the steering at speed, and it also helps your steering wheel return to center after a turn. Like all solid axles...the caster angle is fixed (welded into the housing) along with the pinion angle. So these two angles are forever related to each other and if you decrease one...you increase the other. Most builders consider that CASTER angle should always take precedence over PINION angle, since it has a huge effect on handling and I agree with this. So adjust your caster angle accordingly, and let the pinion angle be whatever it will be. Most likely this flatten out the nose of the diff and increase the driveshaft angle. But the cardan joint will help cancel-out the steep pinion angle. Its the lesser of two evils.

At some point, the front driveshaft angle can become so extreme that you will either need to lower the ride height of the vehicle...or perform a "cut & rotate" mod on the axle housing. This is a very common (although labor intensive) mod that many Jeepers and full-size guys do to their rigs. Basically you cut the inner-Cs loose from the tubes and rotate them backward to increase the caster...then re-weld them in the new position. This is the only way you can point the nose of the diff up without effecting the caster angle. If you need to do this, let me know. I have done many of them.

 

[Panzer07]

I just recently "flipped" my drag-link connection from the bottom to the top. When I upgraded to my new front axle, I also re-configured the steering. I originally had a custom made "flat" pitman arm with the DLE installed on the bottom side. I decided to swap that out for the stock Nissan pitman (like yours) and flip the DLE so it bolted in from the top. Like you...I discovered that the grease fitting would hit the bottom of the frame. So I ended up notching the bottom of the frame rail. I grabbed a piece of .250" wall square tube steel and welded it in to create the notch. There are photos of it on here somewhere.

Your front axle looks angled "nose-up" in that last photo. Many people instinctively think they should raise the pinion of the axle upward, so it is directly pointing at the transfer case. WRONG. Be aware that this will reduce your caster angle to near-zero, resulting in horrific death wobble. You must make sure your caster angle is at least 3 to 4 degrees, or you will have some very dangerous handling issues. Caster is required to stabilize the steering at speed, and it also helps your steering wheel return to center after a turn. Like all solid axles...the caster angle is fixed (welded into the housing) along with the pinion angle. So these two angles are forever related to each other and if you decrease one...you increase the other. Most builders consider that CASTER angle should always take precedence over PINION angle, since it has a huge effect on handling and I agree with this. So adjust your caster angle accordingly, and let the pinion angle be whatever it will be. Most likely this flatten out the nose of the diff and increase the driveshaft angle. But the cardan joint will help cancel-out the steep pinion angle. Its the lesser of two evils.

At some point, the front driveshaft angle can become so extreme that you will either need to lower the ride height of the vehicle...or perform a "cut & rotate" mod on the axle housing. This is a very common (although labor intensive) mod that many Jeepers and full-size guys do to their rigs. Basically you cut the inner-Cs loose from the tubes and rotate them backward to increase the caster...then re-weld them in the new position. This is the only way you can point the nose of the diff up without effecting the caster angle. If you need to do this, let me know. I have done many of them.

Thanks cj yes I kept that in mind from all of our emails...I weld the axle bracket going based on the leaf spring mounts of the axle in order to keep everything as stock as possible (angles or what not) in the pic u saw it look like that cause the axle was just there after I measured for the control arms I haven't really been able to take pics as I like or usually do since my hands have been dirty and just don't have the time lol. Anywyas I'll see if today I can finish the upper control arm and then scrub and paint it all... and from there see if I have time to bolt it all together if not I'll do that tomorrow.

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[4speedfunk]

Cool. Sounds like you got a grip on it. The 3-link allows a huge amount of caster adjustment. Run as much pinion angle (as little caster angle) as you can. Because I welded-up my own housing, I was able to set the caster wherever I wanted it. The result is lots of caster and the pinion pointed right at the t-case...

There are many opinions on the right amount of caster. I'm running over 7 degrees and you can clearly see the wheels leaning into the corners with the naked eye. This is probably overkill and I will be cranking this back a bit, by lengthening the upper link. If you get a chance...look at a new Corvette, Chrysler 300, or Camaro at full lock. They run this much caster, and you can see the same situation on them...I assume for high-speed stability. I don't think big 37" tires need this much, so I plan to crank the caster down until I start to get a "slow return to center" feeling at the wheel...then crank it back a bit. This will help with scuffing the corners of the tires in tight turns.

Here's some shots of my pitman arm frame chop...

I had to do this for the same reasons you pointed out but, I still prefer this over moving the DLE to the underside. When you move the DLE to the bottom, it gives you the frame clearance you need but, it shortens the clearance between the DLE and the tie rod. This is not real obvious until you flex the drivers-side and stuff the tire up into the bump stops. Remember, the pitman arm is stationary but, the tie rod moves up & down with the axle. So make sure your bumps limit the up-travel before the pitman arm does (crunch!). You might want to consider making a custom flat pitman arm if you want to run the DLE on the bottom. This removes the dog-leg bend and moves the DLE up about an inch. Here's what my flat pitman looked like before I went back to the stock Nissan dog-leg arm...