Everything you wanted to know about H3 Front Driveshafts (and more).

[4speedfunk]

Okay...I stopped by the driveline shop today, and here is some additional info:

In addition to the Cardan parts & u-joints listed above, you will also need some driveshaft tube, a 1310 slip yoke, and the slip stud. These are the items you have circled in my photo, and they go on the front end of the shaft. The tubing used here is 2" O.D. x .120" wall ERW. This is a typical driveshaft tube size that most shops keep in stock. In the photo below this shaft is being built for a stock H3 with an IFS front axle. For this reason we are using a "short travel" slip yoke and stud. These are Spicer #2-3-8001KX (slip) and Spicer #2-40-1701 (stud). This will allow you to collapse the shaft to get it in place, and then extend it to get it bolted-up on both ends. The IFS does move a bit back & forth, so you definitely need some sort of way to vary the length, and thats what the slip yoke & stud do.

On SAS trucks, we use longer versions of these parts. The solid axle is "live" and therefore travels up and down quite a bit, so a longer slip assembly is needed.

The tube gets welded to the ball stud tube yoke on one end, and the slip stud on the other. This must be done while the piece is rotated at a very low rpm (lathe welded). This makes for very pretty and even welds, compared to trying to do it by hand. It also balances much better, since the weld is consistent all the way around. All of this is standard procedure at any driveline shop. There is nothing high-tech or custom about this. The only custom part is the THORparts adapter.

The stock length shaft is approx. 31" long. The THORparts adapter is .500" thick, so the target running length is 30.5" long. I usually specify a collapsed length of 29.5" and this gives you plenty of slip to get it installed, with some additional room for minor fore & aft movement of the IFS diff. Here are links to the stud and yoke for an IFS (short travel) build...
https://www.jegs.com/i/Spicer/094/2-40-1701/10002/-1
https://www.jegs.com/i/Spicer/094/2...DPoOvjCgIUhL2I9sfodd9sKG8CBY-1khoC1EYQAvD_BwE

 

[Jose]

Thanks for the info! Any idea where I can get an adapter plate for the tatton 1310 shaft?

 

[Teahead]

Okay...I stopped by the driveline shop today, and here is some additional info:

In addition to the Cardan parts & u-joints listed above, you will also need some driveshaft tube, a 1310 slip yoke, and the slip stud. These are the items you have circled in my photo, and they go on the front end of the shaft. The tubing used here is 2" O.D. x .120" wall ERW. This is a typical driveshaft tube size that most shops keep in stock. In the photo below this shaft is being built for a stock H3 with an IFS front axle. For this reason we are using a "short travel" slip yoke and stud. These are Spicer #2-3-8001KX (slip) and Spicer #2-40-1701 (stud). This will allow you to collapse the shaft to get it in place, and then extend it to get it bolted-up on both ends. The IFS does move a bit back & forth, so you definitely need some sort of way to vary the length, and thats what the slip yoke & stud do.
View attachment 23960
On SAS trucks, we use longer versions of these parts. The solid axle is "live" and therefore travels up and down quite a bit, so a longer slip assembly is needed.
View attachment 23961
The tube gets welded to the ball stud tube yoke on one end, and the slip stud on the other. This must be done while the piece is rotated at a very low rpm (lathe welded). This makes for very pretty and even welds, compared to trying to do it by hand. It also balances much better, since the weld is consistent all the way around. All of this is standard procedure at any driveline shop. There is nothing high-tech or custom about this. The only custom part is the THORparts adapter.

The stock length shaft is approx. 31" long. The THORparts adapter is .500" thick, so the target running length is 30.5" long. I usually specify a collapsed length of 29.5" and this gives you plenty of slip to get it installed, with some additional room for minor fore & aft movement of the IFS diff. Here are links to the stud and yoke for an IFS (short travel) build...
https://www.jegs.com/i/Spicer/094/2-40-1701/10002/-1
https://www.jegs.com/i/Spicer/094/2...DPoOvjCgIUhL2I9sfodd9sKG8CBY-1khoC1EYQAvD_BwE

is that a total of 29.5" collapsed WITH the adapter?

Also, what size of tubing (diameter and thickness) do you recommend?

Is it balanced with EVERYTHING on it? Including the adapter?



Going to be an expensive driveshaft. $700 in parts alone (not including the metal tubing) plus labor for welding/balancing.

 

[Teahead]

Ah duh, didn't read the above: 2" O.D. x .120" wall ERW

 

[Teahead]

No vibrations.

Awesome driveshaft.

thanks so much for the info 4speedfunk!

Invaluable!

 

[lfootmatt]

No vibrations.

Awesome driveshaft.

thanks so much for the info 4speedfunk!

Invaluable!

What a shaft!!!

What was your total cost? This is next for my 08 Alpha Off-road.

I’ve got a shop lined up. Should I buy the spicer parts and provide them or have him source them? He’s a smaller race truck shop and did not seem to care either way.

Thanks in advance!

Matt

 

[lfootmatt]

Duplicate post

 

[lfootmatt]

Duplicate post, oops

 

[zebra]

What a shaft!!!
...

 

[Teahead]

man, total cost is approaching $1k.

I took all the parts (except the adapter) to the driveshaft shop. told them I wanted a total length collapsed, center of the end u-joint, at 29".

adapter fits perfectly.

 

[H3Hummer]

that's a shaft, dude, should be build like that from stock. But 1K$ .......it's a lot of cash for 1 driveshaft

 

[Teahead]

Dana Spicer 094-2-3-8001KX Slip Yoke 1310 16SPL
$63.99

Dana Spicer 094-2-40-1701 Tube Shaft
$46.99

Dana Spicer Yokes 211543X
$191.99

Dana Spicer Yokes 2-28-2867X
$68.99

Dana Spicer Yokes 2-26-477
$59.99

Dana Spicer Life Series U-Joints 5-1310X
(3x) $16.99 = 50.97

THORparts driveshaft adapter
$112.00 USD


Driveshaft weld/balance: $275

Grand Total: $870-ish

 

[Alpha X]

It's not often I have the opportunity to share photos of my shaft in such nice condition. This was from 2021, built from the info in this thread after I installed a Rancho lift kit. I purchased the parts and had Joint Clutch & Gear in Romulus, Michigan put it all together.

 

[lfootmatt]

$870, someday soon I'll post up some pics of my beefy shaft!

 

[lfootmatt]

4speedfunk,

I’m getting ready to order my parts for my shaft build. A massive shaft it will be! However, what is the rational for not using parts that may be greased? Is the initial greasing of the centering yolk and ball stud yolk , and non-serviceable u-joints sufficient for the long haul?

Everyone appreciates a well greased shaft you know

Thanks in advance!

Matt

 

[4speedfunk]

Greaseable joints are hollow. The zirk threads into an "X" shaped hollow passage, which leads to the four cups that contain the bearings. In theory, the solid joints would be stronger because there is no grease tunnel in the middle of them. Almost all new vehicles have non-greasable (sealed) u-joints. They often last for hundreds of thousands of miles. I suppose the thinking behind this is that, when the time comes to grease them...it will be time to just replace them all together. My experience has been that the pivot-pin of the cardan will wear out long before any of the u-joints. These center-pins are available in sealed and greaseable versions. However the greaseable version requires a needle (instead of a zirk), and its a total PITA to try to maintain them, which again...sways the decision to go "sealed" on this item too.

 

[lfootmatt]

Greaseable joints are hollow. The zirk threads into an "X" shaped hollow passage, which leads to the four cups that contain the bearings. In theory, the solid joints would be stronger because there is no grease tunnel in the middle of them. Almost all new vehicles have non-greasable (sealed) u-joints. They often last for hundreds of thousands of miles. I suppose the thinking behind this is that, when the time comes to grease them...it will be time to just replace them all together. My experience has been that the pivot-pin of the cardan will wear out long before any of the u-joints. These center-pins are available in sealed and greaseable versions. However the greaseable version requires a needle (instead of a zirk), and its a total PITA to try to maintain them, which again...sways the decision to go "sealed" on this item too.

Thanks!!! I learned something today! I'll be building the above discussed front driveshaft shortly. Boy was deployed and just got home, so the H3 Alpha sat except for an occasional drive for the last year. Now he's back and I'm retired, temporarily. He was going to be around, travel a bit, help out, nope. "Dad, I need the Hummer" Signed up for college last week, moved in on Monday. Dropped a new battery in it and off they went.

Later,

Matt

 

[Jeepwalker]

I would personally go with a 'greaseable' Cardin pin/ball/bearing ....if it were me. That's a weak area with D-C joints. There's a small cage bearing in there (on most) which NEEDS regular greasing and not that difficult with a grease needle. When it runs dry the pin deforms and then you have to replace the center piece. Otherwise you'd have to remove the U-joints to service ...and that's a lot of work few owners will do. Just don't pump too much grease at once into that pin. Just my thoughts.

Glad I bought an AC Delco shaft back when they were still available. Holding up fine.

 

[lfootmatt]

Dana Spicer 094-2-3-8001KX Slip Yoke 1310 16SPL
$63.99

Dana Spicer 094-2-40-1701 Tube Shaft
$46.99

Dana Spicer Yokes 211543X
$191.99

Dana Spicer Yokes 2-28-2867X
$68.99

Dana Spicer Yokes 2-26-477
$59.99

Dana Spicer Life Series U-Joints 5-1310X
(3x) $16.99 = 50.97

THORparts driveshaft adapter
$112.00 USD


Driveshaft weld/balance: $275

Grand Total: $870-ish

Where did you source your parts?

I'm having trouble finding the Spicer #2-26-477 DSP H-flange (Ford type with scallops for bolt access). The non-scalloped Jeep 2-26-479 version is dime-a-dozen and less than half the prices listed for the 2-26-477 ford version. Other than the scallops on the 477 version the specs are identical. Might just go with that.

Thanks,

Matt