EndeavoredH3
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 469
- Location
- Arizona
I may be interested if she decides she wants to part it out!Bebe has a Complete rotor to rotor sprung over rear end with an ARB for sale.
She may part it out
No compressor
I may be interested if she decides she wants to part it out!Bebe has a Complete rotor to rotor sprung over rear end with an ARB for sale.
She may part it out
No compressor
Some concerns with PowerStop calipers. Supposed to be pressure tested but leaks with no brake pressure. Last set had early failures too, quality has dropped.
View attachment 33906
We were maintaining around 10 h3s at one point and were exclusively using powerstop z36 full kits with calipers as they came due for new brakes. Were were swapping over to powerstop and new stainless hardlines and soft lines with full fluid flush. About four years ago there was a national shortage of H3 powerstop calipers and they must have switched to a new manufacture as we started having issues with them leaking and eventually seizing. No good replacements unfortunately since then. Same issue with the "OEM" calipers from GM parts
Reloader had done a similar mod. Are you planning on making a kit to sell? Will be interested after my swap.Latest mod is a slip-yoke-eliminator on my BW4494. For quite some time, I have noticed that the standard rear driveshaft was running at a pretty extreme angle. Not only is this bad for the u-joints but, it also causes the factory slip-yoke to eventually wear out the bushing in the t-case tailshaft. I could often hear a "rattle" on deceleration...never realizing it was the yoke chattering in the tail shaft housing.
This project was pretty simple once I found the correct parts to do it. I made a drill jig (from an old TH400 yoke). Then I drilled & tapped the output shaft and bolted-on a 1350cv yoke. Next I had a new 1350 driveshaft made. It uses a fixed cardan joint at the t-case, and a slip & stud at the rear diff. This is much like Jeeps and Toyotas have used for years. Now both driveshafts can be removed without loosing any fluid, and because the yoke is not slipping in & out of the t-case...I'm hoping the bushing and seal will last much longer. It is so smooth at 80mph....much better than the standard rear shaft.
Interesting... Any pics of the solar set up?Oil changes for everyone! And sunroof solar panel chargers.
I plan to run the cord under the headliner in a few weeks. The rear window dropped so I’ll have Dave at Apex do both, and a rotor/brake job on my other in a few weeks. Just lost my Dad so taking things one day at a time.Interesting... Any pics of the solar set up?
Nope. Not planning a kit. Its not too difficult, though. All off-the-shelf parts and the only real mod is drilling and tapping the output shaft of the t-case. If you are running a spring-over or a bunch of lift, its a great mod.Reloader had done a similar mod. Are you planning on making a kit to sell? Will be interested after my swap.
I think everybody should redo their wire loom. I solved a lot of errors just by doing that.Re doing the wire loom and upgrading the battery cables to 2 gauge.
Which errors cleared after redo on wire loom?I think everybody should redo their wire loom. I solved a lot of errors just by doing that.
I had the dreaded Service Stab Sys Traction Failed - Reduced Power message as well as the issue the car shaking like it had lost 2 coils.Which errors cleared after redo on wire loom?