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FJ4overland

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
spent some times on the issue - it's not oil - it's probably a intake gasket leak; ugh... it smoked up pretty good for awhile, but it started to reduce - whether that means tightening sealed it or simply reduced the flow... don't know, I suspect it's the latter oh well, I have to drain the system anyway to fix the timing cover leak... while I'm at it, I'll do both ...

Jeep parts (for later)


and I put a spacer in because I suspect there was a vacuum leak (it's a spreadbore base)

which meant shortening the base



wipers work
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
more hated wiring
but first... I'm putting keyed locks on all the various places - so I bought same-keyed locks so when I lose my keys I have to replace all of them again


some mods were required for the lock on the box


and then the wiring - bright side is this - I left the wires long then shortened as I finished


success with the keyless ignition


So my review of keyless... I'm not sure it's going to stay - it has a lag to shut down, that and the antenna needs to be pretty close to the fob to work... which could be problematic. As it's just been hooked up, my opinion may change.... but there's the initial nutshell
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
round 2


I used a hoist to get the manifold unstuck- there's no smoking gun, but the instructions talk about how if you use the wrong adhesive it will cause leaks like I had... crossing fingers


oh, and I broke my ankle - of course, I did the wise thing and kept working with the idea that a doctor will want my knee and ankle elevated - so I put the manifold back on ... I should probably go see a doctor (so he can laugh at me) tomorrow.



that stupid warn winch is just handy enough that I keep it around - but I've had noodles with more strength


​
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
so it runs again, but an injector isn't working right... so the saga continues...
in other news, the keyless ignition is going on something else. It has two flaws that I think are not appropriate for a 4x4: it has a delay between on and off, and you need to have your foot on the brake to turn the vehicle on and off.... maybe I'll put it on the fiat... I ordered a stock switch and may have some hole-repair work to do (yuck, means painting) but the bright side is there will be one key for the door locks and ignition and one for the lock boxes.... and no, I'm not doing a same-key for both - who knows, I may need a valet to park it and this will keep him out of the boxes ;)
​
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
so it runs fine, but still the oil rings aren't sealing... ugh
other news - the keyless ignition is back in backstock for some other project


and had a few minutes to work on the box support... yeah, it's crooked, it won't be when its done


​
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
onward with the console


framework


test fit


so far so good


I'm going to have to get creative for the cup holder


no cupholder... creative, no?


and painted....



tomorrow wire the stereo and start and the rear box(es)...I know it seems like I'm delaying, but a lot of this stuff needs to be done so I can finish wiring.... I also need to steal the HAM radio out of my H3 and find a place for it in here.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
I need to install the breather tubes.... it was the genesis of today's oil leaks


I took it to a friend's shop today - they made the suitable "nice rig noises" .... nice to hear after 18 months of work :)
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
That is some crazy steep angle on the track-bar & drag-link. Looks like the axle swings to port a good 2" or so at full droop. Do you see this being a problem? Notice any bump-steer? I guess as long as the two bars are parallel, you should be okay with bump steer but, do you get any starboard tire rub when the axle shifts over this far?

Dying to see this thing do a 5000 rpm ravine assault!
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
steep yes, but it's life on the road is 2" of travel up, the only time it's going that far down is off-road... and even then, jumping dunes - where there's plenty of room for landing..... and the swing is maybe 1" over the 14" of travel.

driving it - I've driven it maybe 5 miles and it's issue - suspension - is the shocks let the front drop too much (or the rears compress too much) under acceleration which makes you think that it has vague steering... and with that said, when I double checked the links last night, the driver's side wheelbase was 1" shorter than the passenger side - so with that fixed, we'll see, I may take it for a quick run today to see how that changed things (it was more reactionary left then right to steering inputs - the adjustment should fix it). but not bumpsteer at all.... the issue I've got to fix is the vent tubes. I hate oil leaks (as evidenced by my tearing the motor apart to fix a timing cover leak)

Where it's really annoying - putting it on the lift, if you raise off the ground thene back down, it moves 1/2" to the left every time.... the ways to fix it would only move the pivot down, which would cause bumpsteer problems

Originally, I laid out a 4 link, triangulated, but the problem was I'd have to be at least another 6" off the ground to clear the links

with all that said, I was concerned as well - I figured every time you hit the gas, it'd seem the front would want to go right... however, look at (and drive) any XJ - their control arms are shorter and steeper angles and it's not a handful to drive at all... and it is true here, hit the gas and the bias ply tires will randomly choose a direction - but it's never the same way twice ;)

someday I'd love to have the conversation with other suspension builders about the pros and cons of suspension systems. it'll never happen on Pirate because two people with different opinions would fight - it seems that they never realize that all suspension systems have some compromise (perhaps that's it, they'd have to 'admit' imperfection). I've been asked to write articles about building cars and suspensions - but to be honest, I don't want the headache of the trolls. And with that said, I think the 4wheeler (or whichever magazine) that had an article by a young Pewe about suspensions is one of the best primers out there.... I just don't think it goes far enough because his opinion is there is no place to wheel anywhere but the desert southwest... and as he said - he knows it all and no one can teach him anything :no::roll:

nope, nothing rubs.
 
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4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
All true.. It takes awhile to fine tune brand new suspensions. Best to form your own opinion...nobody knows your rig better than you (except for Pirate guys...they know everything). Great looking rig so far.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
Thanks!

Funny you reminded me - so Pirate finally buried the hatchet with me, after all, it's damn hard to argue against someone who did what they said was impossible... and in the near-end, one of the worst trolls admitted that he hadn't built anything in 10 years... thought that was a pretty good example "experts" there.
 
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SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
the weirdest part of all, is the sound of crickets in Pirate anymore. I have my settings to 3 weeks worth of posting (because I can handle their attitude about once every 3 weeks), and this time around there were maybe 5 posts that had been updated in what was a pretty popular section....

well, leaks are solved... I suppose I could take a picture of the not-oil-soaked-floor... but well, I don'twanna


pulled the skid plate off - and thought "hmm, it couldn't simply be a plug that needs tightening".... actually, it was


then I drove it and one leak fixed itself (yay), and I found another leak that I didn't know I had (fuel line), and fixed the brake line leak.... then took it for a drive. It drives so nice now with it aligned - however, once it warmed up, it started running really lean.... and I have no idea why, so tomorrow I'll go bend my friend's ear and see if he has suggestions.... but once that's done, (and the dash is finished), it's on the road

so the rest of my day was Heeps.
First a leaky heep, this is the 2nd or 3rd time we've attempted to fix a water leak into the rear corner (it got hit there, fixed and now leaks)...

then this
new doggie cages


which I built EXACTLY to my wife's written spec..... then she looked at it, and it was perfect (yeah, right).... I need to add 2" to it.... yeah, laugh it up.... oh well, it is kind of funny because I knew I'd have to 'fix' it even with written specifications that were reviewed 10 minutes before construction began.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
so the guess is O2 sensor. I replaced it today (I have spares), but ran out of time for a test run.... crossing fingers. The old one didn't look bad - but it had been overheated, and oil-dowsed while the rings were sealing.... so I dunno
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
O2 pile.... I have several new and good used ones... then I realized, I had a brand new correct one (and I was all ready to blow a plug apart)


and back to the cage... errr crate


a few doors, and a floor and they'll be done




there is a lot more to this, shelves, but I refuse to build them until they're in the vehicle... too many ways the measurements could be wrong...

anyway, back to fun stuff


a bit of drawing




and not enough holes



​more tomorrow.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
a bit more done tonight on the cage.


tomorrow hinges and floor.... then paint and it's half done. Once it's installed, it will get drawers and shelves around it

got a bit further on the dash


and found a way of fixing the hole created by the abandoned keyless ignition button
​
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
the cage for my wife is done, except for paint....


A divider goes in the L to separate it for 2 dogs.



tested on a random bloodhound


and back to the dash




next I have to make a dash for it...
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
well dammit

good news is the thing ran great - it appears the O2 sensor was the problem

bad news

the motor seized. no oil on the outside, no hydro lock... simply stopped running while at idle.... my guess is the oil pickup fell off...

​sigh
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
so I pulled the pan, and number 1 and 2 were toast
then I pulled this


and it's missing the washers on the bypass.... which explains everything I saw up to the failure. I'd been having trouble with (I thought) the dakota digital dash - it would show oil pressure for a bit, then it'd dive and say there was no oil pressure. That simply didn't make sense because I'd never hear the lifters rattling - I may have heard that today.... but too late.

to be continued..... I'm thinking simply buying a replacement, Tahoe short block... however, I may build another 350 or 383.... dunno yet

​
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
still weighing motor options - but in the mean time, there's lots of other things that need finishing
like the dash




much wiring left but it's closer

the volt gauge - so I decided not to run a battery switch, rather, when I'm not idling or running, I'll simply turn the gauge on (also the two power ports) and monitor the battery's health. If it starts to get down a bit, I have a switch that allows either battery or both batteries to be joined together... simply I'll switch to one and let the other be the starting battery....
 
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SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
I may buy the motor today, so this could be a retrospective discussion on choices. So here we go: what to choose?

1) buy a 350 crank kit and put it in one of my blocks
- cost goes like this:
Machine work: $500 if I have to bore it (which, presume I do)
Heads, clean up $200
- crank kit $450
gaskets, oil pump $100
total $1200
2) buy a short block
- pretty simple, prices range from $900 delivered on up
- head work $200
- gaskets, pump $100
total $1200
3) do a stroker
- machine work $500 (crack check, bore, clean, cam bearing install)
- heads $200
- gaskets, oil pump $120
- crank kit $600
- bearings, etc $200
- new flywheel $200 (don't know, not having luck finding a one-piece, external balance flywheel)
- stupid stuff like oil pan $200
total $2000
4) buy a GM crate motor (350)
- $1500-$2000

in all the above, I'll re-use my cam and lifters.... thoughts?
​
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
I'm no expert, but the stroker might be the way to go, my understanding is stroking it will increase torque across the band, which would be more useful for a offroad vehicle. Are you thinking of doing a 383?
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
I bought another 350 short block... I've neither the funds nor the patience to do another upgrade before I wheel this thing
and blow it apart again


I guess the bright side is I get the chance to clean up some things that I didn't want to take the motor out to change before ... blech
 
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