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FJ4overland

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
So today was the day

Steve lead the way

if you look closely, I'm missing a bolt on the skid plate

pretty flowers, no?

this was fun




as was this

this might be were this major damage happened



more flex


it was a blast everyone made it home safely, and there is a list of fixits (next post)
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
So I drove 200 miles today and got 8 mpg, of course, that may change a bit once I do one of the fixits. So here's the list:
I publish this so the trolls can carry on their trolling, but more importantly for the folks who garage build and who the trolls and tv shows bring down. It's an honest list and meant to help others see that it's just part of the build process. Don't anyone get the thought that I didn't have a blast today - I did, this build was totally worth it.

Steering set screw - there are two, I ground one down...

Steering stop nut, I can get more turning radius by turning it in a bit


Not yet fixed
fuel smell - we found the reason - the top of the tank is leaking (which might explain some of the poor mpg - beside the 38.5 bias ply tires, 4.56 gears and brick aero)
Fuel level sender (again) 3/8 is empty.... need to solve that - but since I've got to take the seat out again... no biggie
fuel pump is annoying - I may fix this in my typical manner of build a new tank and put the pump in tank.... because, the easy way is for smart folks and Pirate knows, I'm not smart.
driver's side exhaust leak - annoying but needs fixed (I think I missed a hole header - not a gasket)
reset the driveshaft so it is straight. This one a pro got me - I set the shaft as Tom Woods suggested, he said I needed a degree in it to reduce vibration... uh, dumbme... I'll put it back (easy)
Water, cup holders .... yeah, get over it, shifting and wheeling makes carrying your coffee between your legs a perilous adventure.. and no, I didn't bring water or food today... I need to make food and water permanent in the vehicle so I don't do this again (thank you Regis for bring food)

this is a big one, cooler for the power steering pump. driving normally, it works fine, but it was not happy turning the spartan locker front. I'd like to add a steering ram (and will) but that's later - for now I may simply add a stabilizer so that I don't have death at speed-bump speed wobble until I get the funds.

a caliper is loose and rattling

seat belts are junk - going to replace with good harnesses (4 point)

stupid dana 300s, I didn't put the spring in and am regretting it. 4 wd pops out to 2 wd, I should have put the spring in. This I won't fix until much later, but it's an issue. I need to redo the shift levers because they are also problematic - at one point I had front-only drive which, as far as I know, is utterly impossible.... leave it to me to find a way to make that happen (not twice though)

4 hi/N/4 low... I don't like the levers, I may (gasp) put a stepper motor on it so that it mechanically holds it in gear..... it also doesn't like to go easily between the gears.

clutch, yeah again, as the day progressed so did the level of force required to use the clutch. I think I'll add more heim joints to the system...

skid plate rattle - this could be as simple as a rock on the skid plate.... but there it is.

Add to this the stuff that happened before (oil pump, almost burned to the ground, and the various getting stuff working senders..) and you'll have a complete idea of what it has taken to make it road worthy.

With all of that said, I was blowing along at 80 mph on a rutty freeway and it felt stable. It does tend to corner steer (when you turn a corner the rear helps in the turning process as the body leans - which can be a bit disconcerting to get used to).... that said, once the fuel smell is fixed - I'll drive it anywhere...
 
Last edited:

cgalpha08

"Like Nothing Else"
Messages
3,718
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Dude you basically built a car from scratch, and it looks well done, no to mention you made it look easy. Anyone who hates and says it isn't impressive is plain stupid. Personally i'm super impressed, definitely an inspiration to me and all i do are simple repairs in a parking lot. Loved following the build. Two thumbs up to you man!! :thumbs::thumbs::cheers:
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
bonus pictures




it's really awesome that I have a friend who risks life and limb to ride with me and take pictures, be I think I need to mention to him to turn the camera so it doesn't flatten the hill... still, he was much appreciated on the run.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
back to lights


waterproof connectors


let there be light


if you're curious what the pair draw...

the ignitor brings it up to about 12 amps to start them both... believe it or not, these are 35w, the 55w (upper lights) take almost exactly the same amount of power. For those who ask why, because I wanted work/flood/fog lights down low so as not to blind other drivers

and the occasional jeep gets in the way of progress


pretty radiator, though


more wiring :(


now I have adequate lighting

a
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
One of those interesting things I learned. This is my first dana 300 transfer case, and when I bought/built it I wonder about whether or not to put 4:1 gears in the case. The answer is unequivocally no. On the trail, it was just-right gears, maybe needed just a touch lower gear - however, on the highway, I rarely used 5th gear - which means that when I do the air lockers, I should go to 5.13 or 5.38 gears. That gives me the low range that works for the wheeling I do, and makes 5th gear useful again...

The other thing is I need to kill the drone - this is quieter without a top, at speed then the Kuhmo tires on my H3 with the windows up; but the mufflers are just under annoying, and too loud... so I will, eventually, put DBX or similar mufflers on - benefit of those mufflers is they already have heat wrapping on the inside...
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
Interesting - so I replace the fuel sender (the round bit in later pictures) and figured I messed something up there to have a fuel leak... nope


worse is this doesn't clearly show where it's leaking
this does


pretty much everywhere
the worst is the corner - which didn't leak before


and then the sender


I have maybe 7 psi in the tank
so I used some sealant - mind you, if this doesn't work it means I must build a new tank.... crossing fingers and starting the new tank design


I may move the batteries to under the seat and the tank to the back.... I dunno, have some figuring to do.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
slow the list is getting knocked out
since the fuel leak is fixed, I can wash it


of course, after the fix, now the gauge doesn't work.... sigh... that said, I didn't check it after I wired the lights so something could have been knocked loose. Tested the connection and terminals at the tank and it seems fine
a new item and a fix of another item
No idea why the clutch worked fine then didn't. it was 2 things. first was the nut loosened on the clutch rod, but the second

the line ran too close to the exhaust.... hot fluid expands... clutch works with difficulty. This should resolve it and fix an issue with the wires being too close. Good thing I'd wrapped the wires otherwise this would have been a bit more involved

and limit straps



before someone jumps on about the strap not being tight, the suspension isn't at full droop because the springs hold the axle before that point.... if the warranty didn't require it, I probably would have left the rear axle without straps.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
kind of frustrating day.... starting to get a migraine so I went to do quiet stuff on the '40. So first step was get it off the lift then whip it around so I could start on the fuel sender problem... and the idler pulley (the non-ribbed) is squeaking again. Add to that the exhaust leak I thought I'd fixed .... isn't. So headache, exhaust leak and squeek.... there are days when God is saying "nope, not tonight."

In other news there's a new leak on the bottom of the radiator.... fortunately it's something to do with the hose - though for the life of me I don't know why it'd start now. New hose, didn't leak before....

Oh, and another on Ih8mud was right about the shifter.... inner knob is rear axle control, passenger side is front axle control.... interesting. I think the '40 is starting to get this sense that I'm about fed up with its issues and I'm going to beat it soon.... and I know, I build a show car then beat the living snot out of it. Cool, ain't it?
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
Bloodhound break

that is what happens when you don't exercise your working dog
poor Buick


this is what happens when you're too lazy to shorten your tow strap (or open the gate)

this is what happens when you are too lazy to take the brush bar off to install the PS cooler


and finally this is what happens when you buy generic parts from China


stupid squeals.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
squeal is fixed by AC Delco part...

gas leak is fixed by AC part (my initials)



no leak

coming attraction, something beside gravity holding this in place

and something to keep the water out of this


and list mostly done
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
Need a cup holder, and all the stuff I've found was either plastic crap or expensive plastic crap....
I did find something the right size


but then thought perhaps cutting up my paint gun holder was a bad idea (if I'd have had 2 I would have)
find the right die


weld it to the table




bend into circles


weld together


paint


installation tomorrow
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
cup holder

installed


next up is brackets for these


and a quandry


This particular radio is an AM/FM radio, broadcast on CB radio frequencies (29), and 70cm, 2m, 6m, & 10m. It can also receive on 700-900 - which makes it also a police scanner.



the quandry is multiple - do I keep the CB I already installed and the radio? (probably to allow multiple-band listening), but with the radio - do I really need more then a USB player? .... I'm all for technology and capability - but do I really need it?

weigh in, interested to hear other thoughts
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
Excitement today
rather then do anything fun, I got to find a short


not there
nor in here


how do I get a 50% step-down voltage to the pump relay?


in the end, I have no idea - it runs again. I'll spend some quality time on rewrapping the wires...


though with that said, I got to meet another cool neighbor that will join us on our next wheeling adventures...
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
A company spends all that money, in marketing, research, product support ... and throws it all away with poor quality products
I wasn't going to call out Howell EFI, but this is ridiculous.

To remind. The '40 died at a stop light and wouldn't restart. It was blowing the main fuse for the computer. After 4 hours of diagnosis, I thought I found the issue and fixed it - no, I just spent needless money. I presumed that Howell had done a good job - that was a mistake on my part.

Electrical tape is a wonderful, TEMPORARY wire cover. While it was covered by the loom, the problem was when they soldered the joints, they didn't trim the flash (the pointy ends of the wires) nor did they crimp them flat.... best practice is heat-shrink tubing... which it has now.


Mind you, I wouldn't be so irritated if I'd not already bought a harness at UPullIt that I simply needed to do what I did today to the Howell harness - that is, trim, solder and cover with heat shrink. Secondary to the above issues is they didn't trim the ends of the plastic so it could rub its way through the wire.... oh yeah, the irritation... $400 I spent on their crappy work.

notice the nice, sharp edges and the forced 90 degree bends that bent against the loom cover?


that ball in the middle, had nice ends sticking out - that's what shorted and why when I originally loosened the harness, everything worked again


why not heat shrink? because everyone loves to look at electrical tape falling off?


I feel better about my soldering too


What's really special is the short wires that are soldered on both ends.... black wire must be hard to come by?


5 solder joints, one wire.... no heat shrink....


note the electrical tape coming off a main power wire? this was the short


if only it had looked this good before I re-did it


I re-ran the wires a bit


and finally got around to the 2nd defrost hose


drilling hole




believe it or not, I think I'm going to leave it like this.... no pinch or rub possible


I still need to loom the rest of the wires and find out why the gauge isn't working (again)

my table will get cleaner this week...
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
That's just horrible. I'd be screaming at their customer service manager for garbage like that. That kind of work is what you'd expect to find on Bubba's truck, not from a professional company. I hate using electrical tape for anything I care about. That stuff just does not hold up to time or exposure at all.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
I found the last and final short (remember, 2 shorts - one through the fuel pump and one somewhere else) - the wires to the injectors weren't protected well enough. I don't like the design, but silicone fixes everything - and this time I think it was the best solution... we'll see

other work
those belts I had before wouldn't hold you in place - I like racing harnesses so that's what I went with, yeah, not DOT legal, but so what? I've no problem going and arguing it in front of a judge... heck, that's what I do for a day job.

the plan is a belt bar across behind the seats then feed the harnesses through... tomorrow, at this point these are 100% better then what I had before.

antenna mount for my HAM radio. I still don't know where I'm going to mount it - probably remote-face mount but in any case I need an antenna, so that is what's next






I may bedline it... dunno, don't have tonight so this is where I stopped
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
Time for another radio
I don't love at all the smell of fresh paint being drilled through

but I did it anyway

hard part done


radio works. controller goes on the dash, the rest in the locked, glove box.


I was concerned about hearing the radio - but the dash actually works like a big boom box so locking the chassis in the glove box actually makes it more hearable.

so I think I have enough radios now. This radio transmits/receives on CB band, HAM bands 70cm, 2m, 6m, and 10m, and receives am/fm bands along with 800 mhz (police bands). Of course, I also have a regular CD player AND a CB.... can't have enough radios. lol.... I carry enough radios - I think... I have a couple hand-held HAM radios, FRS radios, and a CB radio.... why? because yelling through your windshield for someone to stop before they drive off a cliff is wildly ineffective....
 
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